Thread: Disco - power to rear of truck

to reduce voltage drop it would be better to go straight to the battery.
a fuse/circuit breaker is a must and it should be as close to the battery as possible.

the wiring should be secure enough under the vehicle so as it cannot move at all. if you are driving on corrugations it can quite easily chafe through and cause a short. just what you need in the middle of big red.
you pull up and find out you have blown a fuse 4 hours ago and its like an oven inside your fridge.

hey a new bush cooking method....roast lamb with beer marinade in a butter sauce and steamed vegies with a creamy white sauce and poached eggs with a side of bacon. STEW!!

This is similar to what I plan to do soon on my 2001 series 2 TD5 Discovery, only difference is that I will install a battery isolator as I have a second battery to maintain in the camper trailer.

I had a look at possible places to run the cable the other day. One possibility is through the drivers side chassis. I have not tried to push a 'snake' (auto lecky terminology, I think!) through yet. Does any know if the chassis is hollow? If it is it seems an easier option. There are several holes in the top of the chassis that the wire could enter and exit through.

There is a flexible conduit running on top of the chassis with what looks like fuel lines either side. The flexible conduit runs across the vehicle just in front of the rear diff and then along the top of the fuel tank, then on top of the chassis and into the water sensor under the fuel filter (TD5). I don't know why it crosses to the other side. Maybe something else branches off, or maybe just a rover thing!

I will run 6mm + & - cables and put a 30 amp fuse/circuit breaker close to the isolator (battery in your case), very important.

Any ideas?

Barry

i ran mine down the top of the chassis rail as i like to be able to see things like this.

it is all secured with cable ties and can not see it wearing thru as it is sheathed as well as heavy insulation on each wire.

the other question i have yet to answer is IF i put a battery online for the trailer do i put it on the trailer or in the vehicle [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

hmmmm.. all these dam questions!

the chassis is one big hollow tube and very easy to run cabling through as you described....BUT....you cannot stop the cable from chafing around inside the chassis rail. also the chassis is full of sand, mud, grit and whatever else the car has been through. very abrassive stuff in there.


dont under estimate the australian corrugations.


if you plan to only stay on the black stuff it is the best place to run the cable.

DEFENDERZOOK, thanks for the info.

It makes good sense to hear what you say. My first thought was the chassis may protect the cable from under body snagging from sticks ect. I use a rover ride on mower (maybe designed by land rover, some things are similar!) and have come to grief several times due to finger thickness twigs ripping away at drive belts, etc.

Would it be ok to run the 6mm cable through the chassis in flexible conduit, or just on top of the chassis?

incisor, on the battery location for the trailer. I have mine in the trailer as I have been told that if the battery is inside the vehicle there is danger in the thing spilling, depends on type of battery, and also gas being created during charging. Mine is in the trailer because there is a purpose built locker for it. Hope this helps.

any ideas welcome

Barry

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Main difference between a novice and an expert are the number of mistakes each learns from

ive run cables for power and spotties on my rig and ive run it all on top of the chassis with plenty of cable ties to stop the cables moving.

Hi folks, first off incisor, depending on what you mean by 6mm, 6mm automotive wire is only rated at 25 amps. This will do the job but it will take longer to charge the battery in the trailer/caravan.

Next you should install circuit breakers at both ends of the cable, as close to the battery’s positive terminals as possible. Don't use fuses, they just keep blowing.

The best place to run cable to the rear of any vehicle is to run it right next to the existing cable inside the vehicle.

Running cable under the vehicle is just begging for trouble, caused by running over a rock or log that just happens to hit right on the cable, well you know the rest.

Running cable inside the vehicle is probably the hardest and most time consuming but the safest way and as you are all doing it to your own vehicles, only the best will do, am I not right.

Last weekend I ran some twin sheathed 6 B&S ( 13mm ) from the battery to a rear compartment in my Rangie.

It took 9 hours and I had to remove 27 panels and covers and the front passengers seat, mongrel job but for safety reasons, wouldn’t have it any other way.

Now as for installing an SC40, of cause you should and I will be happy the sell them to you at a good discount." tongue in cheek".

Whether you use the SC40 or some other brand, it does pay to have some for of automated system in place and that way you wont have to remember to switch on or off as needed.

Cheers

Drivesafe - fancy doing another Rangie :?: I wonder if a 94 Classic is easier or worse to do. I want to run cable for
1) Fridge to be in rear of vehicle, and
2) (for later) trailer hook-up.


Inc - put the battery in the trailer - can then use it to run accessories (lights etc) without the need to have the vehicle there/ plugged in at the time.


So who wants to play Rangie auto-eleck :?:
(for free, of course).