Thread: RV8 HeadGaskets

I do this but with a Holymer spray and spray on to the same standard as a very thin coat of paint accross the lot as do a few in MG circles given our love of leaking gaskets. So smearing around certain parts, I would not recommend unless you can get to the same standard as an even spray. Certainly not any RTV sealant either. Can can be purchased for 15 dollars. As for evidence it works, well I doubt I can say for sure it assists but must help with very minor imperfections here given this type of sealant is used in setting liner heights.

I think (maybe) more importantly Garry is how many pounds tension you are going to do the studs up to,, settled on a number yet?

I wouldn't willingly put anything on a modern gasket to interfere with the stickiness of the gasket as supplied on a clean block surface. I've seen a gasket where the end section blew out after the installer used the wrong sealant. Anyway, tempting the gods of Land Rovers with ill advised leak fixing techniques is risky. Just accept that you will be replacing the gaskets sometime in the future.

G`day ,

i`ve also used Holymar spray over the entire gasket areas .

I`d also suggest it`s not a good idea to build up the ends only .

It`s also an area i take the time to double or better , clean and try to end up with a clean white cloth before the gasket and head go on .

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

I think (maybe) more importantly Garry is how many pounds tension you are going to do the studs up to,, settled on a number yet?

All the experts say the ARB numbers are OK - but on forums people saying they have issues sometimes. Tempted to go 80%.

The head stud hole near the water hole has been repaired with a helicoil and this is the one I am mainly worried about.

In the undamaged holes the stud threads and the block threads are in contact for about 20mm but on the helicoil hole, the helicoil is only about 10mm deep so the thread contact is only about 10mm - surely that cannot be as strong but all the so called experts assure me it is.

Garry

Originally Posted by bee utey

I wouldn't willingly put anything on a modern gasket to interfere with the stickiness of the gasket as supplied on a clean block surface. I've seen a gasket where the end section blew out after the installer used the wrong sealant. Anyway, tempting the gods of Land Rovers with ill advised leak fixing techniques is risky. Just accept that you will be replacing the gaskets sometime in the future.

Thanks - I don't disagree with anything but as this block/head combo has already had two coolant leaks in this spot after rebuilds I am a little gun shy.

Both heads and block have been skimmed so should mate perfectly - but as I said a little gun shy.

Cheers

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

- surely that cannot be as strong but all the so called experts assure me it is.

Garry

I have been assured that not only will it be as strong as original, it will be stronger.

Originally Posted by BigJon

I have been assured that not only will it be as strong as original, it will be stronger.

Yes I know - but while the helicoil itself is stronger it only contacts about 10mm of cast aluminium in the block vs a stud contacting about 20mm. Surely 20mm of aluminium threads have to be stronger than 10mm of alumium threads.

On my Haflinger I recently pulled a helicoil out of a head - the coil was well connected to the to the stud on its inside bit stripped the aluminium head threads on the outside.

As I indicated above I am just concerned about stripping the stud out again when I torque it up.

Cheers

Garry