Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20

Thread: 95 RRC ABS / TC issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    20
    Total Downloaded
    0

    95 RRC ABS / TC issues

    Hi.
    I couldn't see another posting or comment about a Classic Range Rover with ABS faults so I figured Id start this one.
    After a short amount of fairly light 4wding up around Heathcote a few weekends ago my 95 RRC came up with the ABS and TC lights on the dash. I also noticed that, indeed, the traction control and ABS systems were not functioning.
    I can stop the car, turn the ignition off for around a minute, restart, drive off and the lights go away as they normally would (sometimes they would both remain on). I try using the brakes at low speed and a very strange grinding / popping noise would be heard from the brakes, also the pedal feel is totally bouncy and uneven, almost kicking me back. The brakes were not really pulling me up either. The lights would re appear and the brakes all of a sudden would seem to work normally (without the functionality of the ABS and TC)

    I've read about a 'control alt delete' method, tried it and NG. I think that may only be for D2's.
    Also could be a loose ABS sensor / ring inside the hub.. But really I'm grasping at straws.. Any assistance would be fantastic..

    Thanx Matt

  2. #2
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Check the ABS sensors
    Pull apart all ABS plug connections and clean the pins
    Check the body earth leads ... or ... add a new Earth lead from the body (at the bulkhead) to battery
    Replace the Hemisphere (Black metal ball on the brake pump)


    Quote Originally Posted by 95RRClassic View Post
    Hi.
    I try using the brakes at low speed and a very strange grinding / popping noise would be heard from the brakes, also the pedal feel is totally bouncy and uneven, almost kicking me back.
    Now be-aware .... With the faults that you have described, this is the warning that on the suburban road, you will experience this problem. When it happens, the kicking of pedal will go off, and you will lose 80% of brake power.

    When the ABS is becoming a real everyday problem, you can make it happen by pulling up at a corner with the steering wheel turned Left (or right) under "light" brakes

    Basically, your ABS is not getting the right readings and is either thinking that a wheel is locked ... or it is just chucking a Spaz.


    For now, it would be safer to pull the fuse on the ABS untill it is properly sorted out.

    Cheers
    Mike

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Kiwiland
    Posts
    7,246
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by mike 90 RR View Post
    For now, it would be safer to pull the fuse on the ABS untill it is properly sorted out.

    Cheers
    Mike
    Does that work on the late classics with the valve body integrated into the master cylinder?

  4. #4
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Does that work on the late classics with the valve body integrated into the master cylinder?
    Sorry Dougal ... cannot answer your Q properly.


    My main message is to warn the OP (Matt) that the brakes will fail

    Cheers
    Mike

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
    Posts
    9,347
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 95RRClassic View Post
    I try using the brakes at low speed and a very strange grinding / popping noise would be heard from the brakes, also the pedal feel is totally bouncy and uneven, almost kicking me back. The brakes were not really pulling me up either.
    This was an occasional complaint when the cars were newish. A replacement booster/modulator was the outcome in all the cases I can recall.
    Scott

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    20
    Total Downloaded
    0
    This was an occasional complaint when the cars were newish. A replacement booster/modulator was the outcome in all the cases I can recall.
    My god. I've heard this is worst case scenario. And costly
    Thanx Matt.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
    Posts
    9,347
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 95RRClassic View Post
    My god. I've heard this is worst case scenario. And costly
    Thanx Matt.
    Yes, it was one of the bigger warranty claims 20 years ago - so much so that I still remember the part number .
    Scott

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Try this,

    My guess is you have a faulty wheel sensor..

    ABS reset
    (With acknowledgment to Dave Johnson)
    Identifying and Resetting ABS Fault Codes

    Here is the process to decode your ABS system using the “Blink” method, which basically involves three steps:
    1)Locating your ABS test plug connector that would be used to connect to dealer diagnostic equipment,
    2)jumping with a paper clip or other suitable conductor across 2 of the connecting pins of the connector, which results in
    3) the ABS dash light “blinking out” a sequence of long and short
    flashes that will lead you to your problems. It is quick, easy and cheap. Here is what you do:
    Turn off the ignition before you start. You then need to pull the ABS warning Relay. Its a small square plug that has a green base and is the relay closest to the front of the left front seat side panel (remove seat base cover to access)
    With a pen and paper handy, find the blue 4 pin connector under the front of the driver's seat and jumper the black to black/pink wire with the key on – a paperclip will work. The ABS light will first flash a long then
    short blink to indicate the system is beginning diagnostic mode. Then you will start to get your flash sequence. Don’t panic because the code sequence will repeat. Every code starts with 2 pulses on (2.5s each) and then a series of pulses which are the rest of the code.
    Every code contains two “groups” or “sets” of flashes (i.e. blink, blink, pause, blink, blink, blink, blink, blink, blink would be code 2-6 or “Stop Light Switch Fault…see codes below.)
    Once you have the code, you can clear the code by removing the jumper while the sequence is flashing. It is possible, as it was in my case, that you have more than one code in memory, so don’t be
    discouraged if you clear the first sequence only to see another begin.
    My advice is to clear the codes, then take the vehicle for a drive, check to see if there are any new codes. The reason for this is that the codes are stored in non-volatile memory so last for ever or until they are reset. Also a tip: You can tell if any error codes have been recorded by watching the ABS lamp as you turn the ignition on. If no faults are lodged, the lamp will flash once just after you turn on the key. Here are the codes:
    Page 5
    Codes:
    2-12 Front Right
    2-13 Rear Left
    2-14 Front left
    2-15 Rear Right
    Reason: Too large an air gap, or sensor has
    been forced out by exciter ring – try tapping
    sensor back into place.
    Codes:
    5-12 front right
    5-13 rear left
    5-14 front left
    5-15 Rear Right
    Reason: Sensor wire has an intermittent fault
    – check connection(s).
    Codes:
    6-12 front right
    6-13 rear left
    6-14 front left
    6-15 rear right
    Reason: no output from sensor. Sensor may
    have too large an air gap. Try tapping in
    sensor(s), check connections.
    Codes:
    4-12 Front right
    4- 13 rear left
    4- 14 front left
    4- 15 rear right
    Reason: Wiring to sensor is broken or sensor
    resistance is too high. Inspect wiring at sensors.
    Code 2-6: Stop light switch - faulty switch or wiring. Replace brake light switch.
    Code 2-7: Continuous supply to the ECU with the ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
    Code 2-8: No voltage to ABS Solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
    Codes 3-0 to 3-9: Open circuit or connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU.
    Codes 4-0 to 4-9: Short circuit to earth from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
    Codes 5-0 to 5-9: Short circuit to 12 volts in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
    Possible earth fault.
    Codes 6-0 to 6-9: Short circuit between two connections from ECU to to solenoid valve in
    booster.
    Pete
    Gloucester UK.
    Ex 22SAS, 3.9 Vogue SE '95

    The 2 wires you need to jump are the black and black with pink trace, located in the blue connector under the passenger seat outer edge. Prior to performing this you have to also unplug the ABS warning lamp relay, which is the blue or green base plug, again under the passenger front seat outer edge. Remove the side trim to gain access.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #9
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by 95RRClassic View Post
    My god. I've heard this is worst case scenario. And costly
    Thanx Matt.
    Not all bad news in Dollar terms ..... Bit of googling reveals ...

    Link to a Thread .....
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/classic-ra...er-brakes.html

    Link to a Repair shop .......
    Land Rover page | Falconworks' Auto Repair | Jaguar, Range Rover, Lotus, Alfa Romeo, MG, Triumph

    Link to some photos ....
    Range Rover ABS Components

    Cheers
    Mike

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Melbourne Victoria
    Posts
    20
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Try this,

    My guess is you have a faulty wheel sensor..

    ABS reset
    (With acknowledgment to Dave Johnson)
    Identifying and Resetting ABS Fault Codes

    Here is the process to decode your ABS system using the “Blink” method, which basically involves three steps:
    1)Locating your ABS test plug connector that would be used to connect to dealer diagnostic equipment,
    2)jumping with a paper clip or other suitable conductor across 2 of the connecting pins of the connector, which results in
    3) the ABS dash light “blinking out” a sequence of long and short
    flashes that will lead you to your problems. It is quick, easy and cheap. Here is what you do:
    Turn off the ignition before you start. You then need to pull the ABS warning Relay. Its a small square plug that has a green base and is the relay closest to the front of the left front seat side panel (remove seat base cover to access)
    With a pen and paper handy, find the blue 4 pin connector under the front of the driver's seat and jumper the black to black/pink wire with the key on – a paperclip will work. The ABS light will first flash a long then
    short blink to indicate the system is beginning diagnostic mode. Then you will start to get your flash sequence. Don’t panic because the code sequence will repeat. Every code starts with 2 pulses on (2.5s each) and then a series of pulses which are the rest of the code.
    Every code contains two “groups” or “sets” of flashes (i.e. blink, blink, pause, blink, blink, blink, blink, blink, blink would be code 2-6 or “Stop Light Switch Fault…see codes below.)
    Once you have the code, you can clear the code by removing the jumper while the sequence is flashing. It is possible, as it was in my case, that you have more than one code in memory, so don’t be
    discouraged if you clear the first sequence only to see another begin.
    My advice is to clear the codes, then take the vehicle for a drive, check to see if there are any new codes. The reason for this is that the codes are stored in non-volatile memory so last for ever or until they are reset. Also a tip: You can tell if any error codes have been recorded by watching the ABS lamp as you turn the ignition on. If no faults are lodged, the lamp will flash once just after you turn on the key. Here are the codes:
    Page 5
    Codes:
    2-12 Front Right
    2-13 Rear Left
    2-14 Front left
    2-15 Rear Right
    Reason: Too large an air gap, or sensor has
    been forced out by exciter ring – try tapping
    sensor back into place.
    Codes:
    5-12 front right
    5-13 rear left
    5-14 front left
    5-15 Rear Right
    Reason: Sensor wire has an intermittent fault
    – check connection(s).
    Codes:
    6-12 front right
    6-13 rear left
    6-14 front left
    6-15 rear right
    Reason: no output from sensor. Sensor may
    have too large an air gap. Try tapping in
    sensor(s), check connections.
    Codes:
    4-12 Front right
    4- 13 rear left
    4- 14 front left
    4- 15 rear right
    Reason: Wiring to sensor is broken or sensor
    resistance is too high. Inspect wiring at sensors.
    Code 2-6: Stop light switch - faulty switch or wiring. Replace brake light switch.
    Code 2-7: Continuous supply to the ECU with the ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
    Code 2-8: No voltage to ABS Solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
    Codes 3-0 to 3-9: Open circuit or connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU.
    Codes 4-0 to 4-9: Short circuit to earth from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
    Codes 5-0 to 5-9: Short circuit to 12 volts in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
    Possible earth fault.
    Codes 6-0 to 6-9: Short circuit between two connections from ECU to to solenoid valve in
    booster.
    Pete
    Gloucester UK.
    Ex 22SAS, 3.9 Vogue SE '95

    The 2 wires you need to jump are the black and black with pink trace, located in the blue connector under the passenger seat outer edge. Prior to performing this you have to also unplug the ABS warning lamp relay, which is the blue or green base plug, again under the passenger front seat outer edge. Remove the side trim to gain access.

    JC
    Wow JC. I hope you copy and pasted that from a previously written post or document!! Or, you've gone to considerable trouble and effort to type all that out.. Either way, You are to be commended.. Will give it a go after I do a manual check of plugs / fittings and earths

    Thanx Matt

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!