Thread: D1 Speedo Transponder.Drive

Originally Posted by Spel1

If there's a uni joint at the diff end, its a replacement for the original rubber coupling. The tailshaft in mine (also converted to unis) was so long that it wouldn't slip past the bolts on the drum either - I was wondering if the kit involved using a RRC shaft which is a tiny bit longer or something. I figured that couldn't be good on full suspension compression where it might all jam up. So I took it to a driveshaft shop and got them to cut 10mm out of it and balance. Much easier to work with now, and still plenty of spline contact.

My rear t/shaft has a weld about a foot from the front end so I'm thinking that it may have been modified, the length that it is will only allow 16 to 19mm travel forward on the splines, seems not to be enough, I cant remember having this problem before, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by justinc

output seal Frank is FTC4939.
To instal it dead square, use the actual output flange to push it in (The mud shield will push against the seal nicely) by tightening the nut. Rempove the nut and flange again, fit the old seal and use the same method and push the seal in a few mm more so the new seal clears the mudshield on final assembly. Remove the flange and hook out and discard the old seal. Reassemble and top it up


JC

Thanks JC will order one tomorrow, from Karcraft, I think last time I did one the seal came with a felt washer and the splines on the shaft had been Blue Maxed to death, good Idea or not, does the felt seal actually do anything, regards Frank.

Originally Posted by Tank

Thanks JC will order one tomorrow, from Karcraft, I think last time I did one the seal came with a felt washer and the splines on the shaft had been Blue Maxed to death, good Idea or not, does the felt seal actually do anything, regards Frank.

I always use sealant on the splines, fit the flange and then run a bead around just proud of the edge of the flange inner so the washer squeezes it out a little. not too much though!

Make sure it is tight, too. Have seen a few flogged out output flanges from coming loose and the internal splines wearing.

Don't forget to specify Corteco brand.

JC