The reason I ask is because the new piece is not fully welded to the ends?
Hi All
I am about to start restoring Russell with a start on the Chassis. ..
The question is ... Do I cut out the old pieces exactly to match the new piece so the metal butts up againstnthe existing ...... or it it designed to be overlapped ?
The reason I ask is because the new piece is not fully welded to the ends?
I would butt weld it but stager the joins. leave the top and bottom faces longer by about 50mm than the 2 sides. so you finish up welding along the edges as well as across the 4 faces.
Hi Chopper.. That would give it a lot more strength if it's overlapped wouldnt it ?? So you recommend the side face is a butt joint and not also a overlap ????
I wouldn't overlap any of it just stagger the joins and butt it and keep it all nice and flush, and if its welded well it will be as strong as new.
Butt the joints but at an angle not square across or down the sides
AM
So you recommend I don't overlap the plates ?
Not sure if you have the material but consider either of these options with fish plates above - especially as you new section will ultimately support the front spring hanger to some extent.
Google Image Result for http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/Metalfab_101/Linked%2520images/Chassis_extension3.gif
Google Image Result for http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y270/Metalfab_101/Linked%2520images/Chassis_extension1.gif
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Ah roverrescue thats what i needed thanks ..however the rear cross member with the extensions only has 3 sides with no plate at the bottom ..its not a box extension but a U extension ..only 3 sides ?
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