Thread: series 2 discovery diff lock

Barry,

I've just done the CDL on my 1999 TD5, and will be helping a mate do his this weekend on his 1999 V8. All the info that you have had is correct, and it does make a big difference.

I picked up the manual actuator units from Triuph rover Spares in SA for $250 delivered to WA. With the help of a mate plus a printed copy of the intall intrustions from http://www.expeditionexchange.com/cdl/ and http://arnclan.dyndns.org/ashcroft/?page=part&id=31 we installed the unit in about 4 hours. I must point out that I'm not a mechanic at all and would normally pay to get the work done, but as everyone that I spoke to didn't really have an idea, decided to have a go. So if you have even the most basic abilities it should be quite easy, and cheap. We are planning that the V8 should take about 2 hours now that I know what to do.

There is no major work, the hardest things are, making the hole in the plate were the high/low lever comes through bigger and I beleive getting the auto gear lever cabling back together, (mines a manual).

If you want any help ect, or want to give me a call send me a PM and I'll send through my numbers..

Terry.

Terry, thanks for the info. Yes it seems the job would be worthwhile. I may have left my run a bit late as I leave on April 2nd for my trip.

Can you operate yours in high and low range? The main reason I did not get British Off Road to do mine was that they said their unit worked only in low range. In my experience, high range and CDL is an advantage in soft sand. That was with my previous experience with manuals, I don't know much about the autos as yet.

I will drop you an email if I decide to have a go at mine before my trip.

Barry

Yeh Barry it works 100% in high and low range and as you pointed out it does make a big difference especially in sand.

I hear what you are saying ab out time but as i pointed out it really is a fairly easy job and well worth the effort.

terry

Originally Posted by kevinbarrett

Hi Barry,
I have just sold my 2000 Discovery TD5 and the home made CDL, along with a good set of tyres, was the best upgrade I made. I made a very simple mechanical linkage from an old 13mm socket and extension bar through a hole in the transmission tunnel. As you say it only needs about a 45 degree turn. It cost me about £5. I based it on an article on discoweb.org, go to "tech" then "disco 2 CDL install"

If you engage CDL with the engine running you have ETC, if you engage CDL before starting the engine (or if you stall and restart the engine with CDL engaged) ETC is disengaged and the ETC light will illuminate. You can use this to your advantage as there are times when ETC is detrimental to keeping momentum, in deep sand for example.

I have fitted the CDL kit and tried all of the things to engage and disengage the ETC and ABS however no matter what I do I cannot seem to disable the ETC and ABS. HELP PLEASE!

Firstly, do you get the red diff lock engaged warning light? If not you will not be able to disable the ABS/TC by activating the diff lock. there is adjustment for the switch that activates the CDL warn light,, mine use to work but now I dont get a warning light when diff lock is engaged and hence my computor is unaware of the CDL on so does not disengage ABS/TC.
If you are desperate to disengage the ABS/TC you can always just pull the fuse as required until you adjust your switch depth.

BARRYJ
I used a flexable drive agencie cable and home made alloy bracket to activate my Cdl, cost about a hundred dollars for a good heavy cable that is sealed against the elements. photos here
http://www.aulro.com/app/member.php?uid=8650&protype=1

Originally Posted by Stewie

I have fitted the CDL kit and tried all of the things to engage and disengage the ETC and ABS however no matter what I do I cannot seem to disable the ETC and ABS. HELP PLEASE!

Originally Posted by duff

Firstly, do you get the red diff lock engaged warning light? If not you will not be able to disable the ABS/TC by activating the diff lock. there is adjustment for the switch that activates the CDL warn light,, mine use to work but now I dont get a warning light when diff lock is engaged and hence my computor is unaware of the CDL on so does not disengage ABS/TC.
If you are desperate to disengage the ABS/TC you can always just pull the fuse as required until you adjust your switch depth.

BARRYJ
I used a flexable drive agencie cable and home made alloy bracket to activate my Cdl, cost about a hundred dollars for a good heavy cable that is sealed against the elements. photos here
http://www.aulro.com/app/member.php?uid=8650&protype=1

duff, looks good. I forgot that I needed one as we went on our trip to Broome and back via the Gibb River road and all went well. Since then we we have not done any big trips due to my illness.

I would love to try mine without the CLD activated on sand. That would test out Rover's bright idea of removing the lever.

all the best,

Barry

I am actually a fan of the TC. WHEN its working.

The first four years of ownership have travelled heaps and not suffered from the TC. I have really only retro fit a diff lock because I can no longer trust the three amigo's.

During a play with a sand dune during our recent border track trip,, It would seem that the best combination for my car in sand is both the diff lock engaged and the TC operating. with just the diff lock I still had a wheel at each end that would spin. With just TC the wheels would be braked often.

So for my experience the only place I want to turn off ABS/TC might be for high speed dirt roads, where the TC has little to no task above a hundred k's and the ABS has scared the hell out of me during an emergency stop previously.

This is what i did, i got the 04 actuator from AMV for $375 off a wrecked 04 D2

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=38640

Baz.