Thread: series 2 discovery diff lock

Yes I get the red light on the dash when the CDL is engaged. It goes out when disengaged (athough I seem to have to make a few turns of the wheel to disengage it?)

Originally Posted by duff

Firstly, do you get the red diff lock engaged warning light? If not you will not be able to disable the ABS/TC by activating the diff lock. there is adjustment for the switch that activates the CDL warn light,, mine use to work but now I dont get a warning light when diff lock is engaged and hence my computor is unaware of the CDL on so does not disengage ABS/TC.
If you are desperate to disengage the ABS/TC you can always just pull the fuse as required until you adjust your switch depth.

BARRYJ
I used a flexable drive agencie cable and home made alloy bracket to activate my Cdl, cost about a hundred dollars for a good heavy cable that is sealed against the elements. photos here
http://www.aulro.com/app/member.php?uid=8650&protype=1

I got the same kit from the same guys in Adelaide. Mine was a bit more expensive though?

Very easy to fit and simple to use while driving.

This weekend was a life saver as it got me through 42 Mile @ the Coorong and also ment I could save the a Toyota I was travelling with who got bogged in sand!!!!

Still would like to know why I cannot disable ETC and ABS though?

Originally Posted by barryj

Thanks for the update. I take your point about the spanner and deep sand or mud.

I have just purchased a 2001 Disco despite actually searching for a 96 to 98. This thread will solve my first order of business, getting the CDL working so thanks!

Can I just ask to those who speak of cutting the wire behind the glove box, wouldn't it be better to wire in a toggle switch so that you can choose to have or not to have TC when the CDL is engaged???

Originally Posted by Ports

I have just purchased a 2001 Disco despite actually searching for a 96 to 98. This thread will solve my first order of business, getting the CDL working so thanks!

Can I just ask to those who speak of cutting the wire behind the glove box, wouldn't it be better to wire in a toggle switch so that you can choose to have or not to have TC when the CDL is engaged???

Not a toggle, but a "Push to break" button is better!

But a toggle would do the job!

Its what I did in mine

I cant recall where the post is, but there is a wire down at the passengers footwell that connects the CDL light to the SLABS computer which you can cut so that the ETC doesn't switch off, but the light still works. You could switch it also.

Here is the info on the wiring to cut/switch. Haven't found the need to do it on my converted 2002 model. I just try and remember to start and stop with the CDL disengaged. Found this on a website some time ago - proceed at your own risk, no responsibility accepted for accuracy!


Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out
2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.
3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.
4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!
5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Hi,

Had the same problem with my D2, just buy a lever from a earlier
or later model with diff lock. Picked on up from a scrap yard and fitted with 4 hours. CDL Linkage was supplied.

I know its been some time since the thread but I have only just got my S2 99 ES, I got it a week befor making a trip to the snow (main reason for a disco) and coming down the mt in the heavey snow I tried the CDL but I dont think it did anything no light come on and did not feel any diff in the control apart from I think HillDecent did not seem to work as well after.

After getting home and having to replace a faulty radiator cap I had a look the the transfer case I think I can see the link arm that is required (that is a dirty big arm from the CDL to the inside nob.

I need to check and replace the oil in the CDL as I noticed a drip when under.

Anyone got a input?????