Thread: Looking for engine conversion ideas for a series 3

Originally posted by OldDog

I spoke to the engineer and he reckons the only conversion that doesn't need major $$$$ is the holden 6, as it's an "approved conversion". I mentioned this at the pub and bingo, i've got a VC commodore in my back yard getting stripped for the bits to do a conversion, guess that answers the question [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

Just love happy endings.

Let's know when you break the gearbox, someone's gotta take the record other than me. :roll:

Bloody hell i hope not, ops: i'm spending enough time getting this bugger going and i havn't had a decent drive in it yet [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] Actually i'm thinking of rebuilding the box before i bolt up the 202, reckon that'll help it survive? Did you do the holden conversion to your beast or was it already converted?

Already converted... except when the motor in there (179 reco'd up to 186) cracked the sads I did the only thing I could, reinventing it's adolescence. You see an ........ older gentleman used to dawdle about in it for years as cockies manage to do in vehicles that are on the verge of colapse..... until I bought it and lasted a week of abuse from me.

I replaced all the gearbox bearings when I first pulled it all apart as the syncro clips on the 3/4th weren't working. Takes some of the rumble out of it.... it's that whining transfer than will getcha though. Still... didn't stop me another I dunno how many times pulling it apart 'cos I broke something.

All I did was rebuild everything I could all over the vehicle when the motor broke as mechanically I wanted it great but body wise... hardcore dents pull chicks... which I've added to just to be sure they do. The last roo was the icing I think considering the bend now in the bullbar posts and body damage. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

So I replaced busted motor with a mod'ed 186 and got it to breathe the best I could. So my problem is because of that...jetted up dual throat carby, different cam, dual 2in exhausts, new bit firmer clutch.....give it a fair wallop of stick.... the tacho hits 3 grand and hell breaks loose. So it's been a more or less constant replacement of something in the gearbox.

Sheared half the teeth off third gear
5º twist in the 3/4 syncro hub
twice broken syncro clips
the bearing between the main shaft and the imput colapsed
the detent springs for 1/2 syncro selector thing broke and did a bit of damage
sheared half the teeth off the layshaft on the imput gear


but then.... the stuff it has to 'cope' with...it does okay....considering we're both rehaunting our late teen years and gets used as a haul unit for work.


And you wanna go 202..... :roll:

202's the only option i have with the NSW rego rules [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] plus it'll have to have all the polution gear hanging off it. I think the idea Crossy has on his post might be the best idea, this motor has a good aussie 4 speed hanging off it, maybe i could adapt the transfer up to that? i could proly slip in a bit mor power then. Ah, who knows, i'll find out when i finally pull the drivetrain out of the landy and start measuring stuff up. Another thought the M20 might be cheaper for parts than the landy box.

The most common conversion for the landy is the holden red 186. Why? because they are cheap and easy to adapt and have far more power than the running gear can handle. I had a 186 in a series 2a which was great, put a 202 in it and got more low down torque and fuel economy with better power to weight ratio. The 186 is the revy one and 202 is the workhorse. The gearbox will handle it but the diffs and axles may not.

Another suggestion is the high tensile axles from Maxidrive on the Gold Coast (highly recommend) and some Range Rover diff centres for strength and higher gear ratio and you can easily sit on 100km/hr with about 7km/L.

I can't remember your first add, but if you have a four cylinder landy then the holden 6 wont fit straight in without moving the radiator forward or changing the bulk head.

Cheers and good luck
Brendan

Originally posted by OldDog
202's the only option i have with the NSW rego rules [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] plus it'll have to have all the polution gear hanging off it. I think the idea Crossy has on his post might be the best idea, this motor has a good aussie 4 speed hanging off it, maybe i could adapt the transfer up to that? i could proly slip in a bit mor power then. Ah, who knows, i'll find out when i finally pull the drivetrain out of the landy and start measuring stuff up. Another thought the M20 might be cheaper for parts than the landy box.

:roll: Yer hooked.

This will become a killer B&S machine soon the way your talking.

You do know Castlemaine Rod Shop does a blower kit for the 202 if you want more squirt. So you're gonna need a cut and shut a salisbury under the rear while you're shoehorning the torquemaster in. Be cuttin' up the local paddocks in no time.

Hi olddog, Ron posted a thread in the general forums about a guy selling a nissan diesel engine which apparently came out of a series vehicle. the seller cancelled the auction because the price was wrong or something, but ron has the item number. Might be a thought. matt

If you can find a 2a box, use it.
They are stronger than a series 3 box.

For fitting a sailsbury, find some ford transit van parabolic springs with an offset pin and the diff just bolts in. If you try to do it with standard springs, you will need to shorten your drive shaft 2 inches.

Remember - 2a box is the key.

Dave [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]