Thread: Clutch issues - the pedal is solid - Defender 110

A hard pedal would suggest master or slave cylinder failure, jammed piston.
Replacing both may get you going again.
By removing the slave cylinder you should be able to determine the condition of the clutch fork.
To replace the clutch, it is easier to pull the motor on a defender.
In your case, if the spare gearbox is known to be in good nick, then box out would be the way to go.


You'll need,
New spigot bush (get 2, in case the first 1 shatters)
Clutch kit (HD 130)
throw out bearing
Heavy duty fork
Flywheel will need machining (MR do an exchange unit)


Other things to look at.
The rear main seal (engine) could be replaced if it's leaking .
Welsh Plugs, there is one at the back of the block normally not accessible.
If pulling the engine, check engine mounts, coolant hoses

I'm assuming it is 200/300 TDI

Thanks, yes 300tdi. Coolant hoses have been recently done as have quite a few other things.

First thing I would try is to open the bleeder nipple on the slave cyl. If your pedal goes down this eliminates the master cyl. If this tests ok I would then remove the slave cyl and check.

As for your noise that goes away when clutch is disengaged. There are two causes here, either the clutch plate or a gearbox problem.

To identify clutch, take the engine revs to about 1200 rpm. If the noise goes away it is clutch. Not exactly correct here. It is engine harmonics being transmitted through the clutch plate. 4bd1's have this chronic, and to my knowledge can't be fixed, whereas I have done many a vehicle where a different brand of clutch plate can fix it.

If the noise is is still there when with revs increased it is in the gearbox.