Hi Jazzman
I am just about to do this exact job myself. Two questions
1. Can it be handled by one person, or will I need two people to get the TC out?
2. How long did it take you?
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Hi Jazzman
I am just about to do this exact job myself. Two questions
1. Can it be handled by one person, or will I need two people to get the TC out?
2. How long did it take you?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DCPAus
It can be handled by one person. By handle I mean you can lift it and drag it. But don't expect to be able to lower it out of the car by yourself. You'll need a second jack. If you only have one trolley jack you can use it to remove the TC and use another type of jack to support the engine and transmission. I supported the TC on the trolley jack and also used a tie down strap to ensure it wouldn't fall off. I then lowered it all the way and rolled it off the jack after removing the tie down.
It took me about 10 hours. I also cleaned everything and had to work my way through other problems. It could be done much faster a second time around.
I think I have more drive line movement then I did before I removed the transfer case.
When I back off at slow speed I can feel a clunk, if I reapply throttle quickly I can feel the same clunk. If I reapply throttle slowly it doesn't go clunk.
Can removing the axle for the intermediate gears, to change the 2 o-rings causes this issue? It does have a lock nut on the end, if it was loose could this happen?
When you say "axle for intermediate gears" I assume you mean the actual intermediate shaft
The nut on the end of that shaft sets the end float for the intermediate gears which funnily enough is an integral function of overall t-case mesh pattern.
When dissasembling and then reassembling did you set up the endfloats according to the rebuild manual?
If that nut is loose the intermediate shaft will be a dancing and not doing great things for your gears
the trouble with the LT230 is they are pretty simple and pretty tough so you could probably cludge them together with a hammer and they will still work. i had a mate who had one replaced under warranty drove about 800km before it came to a grinding halt because the warranty box was never filled with oil! 800km is a good distance for a dry box to travel...
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No I did not do that due to receiving some bad advice from my old man. Will I have to get a repair manual. Is this info in Rave? Will I have to remove the TC again or can it be done while fitted?
I think I've found two different ways to set "end float" in the LT230.
1987 Range Rover Classic LT230:
By using a scale with string attached to the output gear tighten the nut on the intermediate shaft until 3.7kg of load is applied to turn TC. TC in neutral.
Defender LT230:
Set the end float using feeler gauges between 0.08 - 0.35mm.
I have the tools to do it the Defender way, the problem I've got is I'm not sure exactly where to put the feeler gauge.
What would happen if I simply tightened the nut on the intermediate shaft until the "clunk" was gone?
Do a search for LT230 Rebuild Manual on elgoogle
plenty of hits
read it cover to cover before pulling anything apart again
it is very well laid out and easy to understand
The LT230 is an easy box to work on, there are several endfloats to set
I would suggest if you are going to pull it apart again that rebuilding or replacing the centre differential would be a worthy process
s