Thread: LT230 bolt too long damage?

We found the same thing when removing the TC from a running wreck ( I wanted the TC for the centre diff lock)

Someone in the past had mixed up the attaching bolts and the longer one had worn against the main TC gear leaving metal fragments as well.

It was running fine from what we could see!
Seems not uncommon mistake.

I would thing it will be OK considering it happened 130k km ago!

Regards

Just opened the covers to have a look. The gear is fine. Cleaned out some small fragments that where still there. I'm pretty confident it will be ok too. I've taken some pictures I'll post them later.

I've fitted new seals to my LT230 Transfer Case purchased from Roverlord and everything is running fine:
Land Rover LT230 Transfer Case "Premium" Seal KIT AND Locking Nuts KIT | eBay

I did find that one bolt that attaches the TC to the Auto was fitted incorrectly. It was a longer mounting bolt meant for a different hole. (Only Land Rover would decide using different size bolts would be a good idea) It did not damage the intermediate drive gear it was rubbing against fortunately and i was able to take the access plate off to check for any metal fragments inside the TC. There were some very fine ones that looked like they once may have been threads from the bolt, i removed these with a magnetic screwdriver.

There where some more metal fragments that looked a copper / brass colour. I was not sure where these had come from. When replacing the o-ring on the centre diff lock lever I noticed a very large solid component inside the TC that was the same copper / brass colour. Whatever it does it looked solid enough to loose a small amount of material from it.

I reassembled the TC using PERMATEX Ultra Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker 81724. It is important to remember to PUT THIS ON THE THREAD AND UNDER THE HEAD OF EACH BOLT. If you forget to do this, there is a good chance oil will still leak out the bolt.

Permatex Ultra Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker 81724 77B | eBay

Also worth a mention I replaced:
The roto flex rubber coupling thing on the rear drive shaft as mine was 10 years old already and looking tired.

Rear Rubber Coupling FOR Range Rover P38 Discovery 1 2 Genuine GKN Germany | eBay

The transmission mounts as the drivers side one was damaged (This was probably the cause of the vibration i was getting at 105km/h that has since disappeared)


The prop shaft bolts (note the prop shaft bolts on the rear of the TC are longer than the front)

Land Rover Discovery 1 Discovery 2 Tailshaft TO Output Flange Diff Bolt KIT | eBay

All parts purchased from Roverlord: Land Rover items - Get great deals on Engine Parts, Gear Box and Auto Transmission items on eBay Stores!

Below are the steps I took to remove the transfer case. I'm not sure if they are the same steps in the repair manual, but it worked for me.

Key out of ignition
Remove cross member
Disconnect hand brake
Remove front and rear prop shafts
Remove break drum
Remove harmonic vibration absorber (metal and rubber L shape)
Remove front and centre section of exhaust
Disconnect gear selector
Disconnect High, Low cable
Disconnect center diff lock cable
Disconnect sensor wire / connectors from top of Transfer Case
Unbolt loom support from top of TC
Support transmission and engine with trolley jack A
Support Transfer Case with trolley jack B
Remove transmission mounts
Lower both jacks to enable TC to slide backward and not hit underbody
Push TC backward until input shaft disconnected careful not to damage seal
Lower TC to ground and drag out from under car

the long bolt trick is an old chestnut! obviously the rebuilder didnt manually turn the box in both ranges and lock/unlock before installing instead relying on the engine and gearbox to shorten the bolt up !

the copper/brass coloured material is likely from the centre differential thrust washers which are more than likely toasted.

not difficult to rebuild or replace with an Ashcroft ATB

steve

Thanks, very informative, at least $11 worth,
I would have disconnected the battery, but that's just me.
And you couldn't listen to the cricket then

Originally Posted by roverrescue

the long bolt trick is an old chestnut! obviously the rebuilder didnt manually turn the box in both ranges and lock/unlock before installing instead relying on the engine and gearbox to shorten the bolt up !

the copper/brass coloured material is likely from the centre differential thrust washers which are more than likely toasted.

not difficult to rebuild or replace with an Ashcroft ATB

steve

From reading other posts, I'm no mechanic, those washers are a wear item and should be replaced.

If these washes are indeed damaged. What side effects would I expect to feel?