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28th March 2005, 06:30 AM
#1
RUST resistance...which model is the best?
Sheff
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>However, the SIL has some ongoing worries...but more concerning is serious rust under the door frames. Every time he shuts a door a packet of rust falls out!! The vehicle is parked outside next to the ocean, so perhaps this is the problem. [/b][/quote]
Not good news the name "ozseasider says it all ...75 meters away from the Pacific Ocean(despite maps saying Tasman Sea :?: ) and NO garage.
A major reason for the Land/Range Rover purchase decision is the advantage of the aluminum/steel construction on a separate chassis... having "lost" 3 mono constructed vehicles to rust 
I'm hoping that the Landie will, if needed, be able to be kept for an indefinite period with due replacement of rust affected parts...in the long term I'll have the chassis galvanized, body-off anti-rust/corrosion treatments and on-going mechanical replacement with high rust resistant parts(e.g) stainlesss steel exhaust, braided brake lines, nuts & bolts...
So another question...of the various Land Rover models,(Range/Discovery/Defender/Series) which do members believe the most able to be "resurrected" by the outlined method?
ozsea :?
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28th March 2005, 06:48 AM
#2
They're all as good/bad as each other.
Although the body pannels are mainly made from ally, you get a different kind of corrosion - Bi-metalic corrosion. The ally will actually react with the steel skeleton to the bodywork and rot!
That said... It is possible to get the Landy chassis galvanised, there after it's then doing to be down to preserving the main body components such as the bulkhead... Lashings of WaxOil should help with this.
The other approach you could take is to preserve the chassis, with the help of galvanisation and then just look at replacing the body parts as and when they rot!
HTH
Mark.
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28th March 2005, 07:59 AM
#3
I read somewhere that having the Chassis galvanised, ( hot Dipped) will weaken it 's structural qualities. Is that true?
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28th March 2005, 12:43 PM
#4
It's just a matter of looking after them, there was a bloke at Pottsville Beach who had a ser 3 shorty that spent it's life on the beach. Stan was wormer so the car did a couple of beach runs every day at low tide so he could catch worms. This car used to get rust proofed with oil and diesel, Stan would spray under and on top and then clean the window, 2 weeks later he'd wash it with hot water and kero, the thing was perfect. As for gal some of the Army 11Os had gal chassis from new. I think you'll find if you get sound car to start with and fat it up you'll be fine. I do them with fisholene first then seal them with Tectyle and Septone under body rust proof.
Like I said before the Disco's are 10 years younger so you are likly to get a better one than an early rangie. Plenty or dry salt free ones around in places like Brisbane.
A lot happens in ten years, things like real A/C that is actually cold, nice strong 4 speed autos, LT 230 transfer box, real fuse box and electrics, bigger radiator, more sound and heat insulation, better seats, wider wheels, sway bars, central locking power windows, fuel injection, bigger engines, etc.
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28th March 2005, 03:33 PM
#5
A mid 80's Rangie that has all removeable/ unboltable panels would be my bet or a county/ defender - disco would be too hard to repair bad rust.
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29th March 2005, 07:07 AM
#6
All panels come off Discos expect the roof, everything elese is bolted and sikaflexed.
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