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Thread: rear Axle play at hub?

  1. #1
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    rear Axle play at hub?

    Hey all,


    had to remove the rear hub and disc to reblace a broken wheelnut stud on my 95 defender (sals diff)


    First thing I noticed whn taking the dust cap off is how dry it is in there, and what looks like metal dust/flakes...along with rust powder etc


    second. I noticed that where the circlip stops the axle shaft from being pushe right in...it actuall comes out...as in there is a considerabe amount of play in and out, and it sounds as dry as a bone. See pic of how much play there is.


    I know the fronts have a shim/washer before the circlip...but I cant see that this is normal???
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    Last edited by Homestar; 1st January 2015 at 09:52 AM. Reason: Fixed typo in title.

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    Looks similar to the series 3 Sals setup, in which case the play looks normal. I've just put mine back together again from rebuilding it and there is nothing to stop the axle coming moving a bit out wards - the splines are cut about 40 mm down the axle. You should find it stops just before it touches the dust cap. I'll go and check and take a pic of mine to see if it is the same - I lost a circlip, so I haven't put the dust cap back on one side yet.

    The lack of lubrication I would look at - mine were swimming in oil when I removed the dust caps. Is your diff low on oil? I'd probably whip the hub off while your at it and check your bearings.

    Oh, and I'd probably do that busted wheel stud as well.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Maybe not quite as normal as I thought when fits looking at it.

    Here's a pic of mine and you can see it only comes about 1/8" past the circlip. Maybe the lack of lubrication has caused the some wear on the drive plate - I can't remember how much meat is supposed to be in there - I didn't look at that on mine while it was apart, but it's only a few bolts to check if you want me to? You got a pic of the axle end at all?

    Attached Images Attached Images
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  4. #4
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    The play is normal.
    There is nothing to stop the axle from coming out, as per bacicat.
    you've still got greased bearings I assume, so the axle spline should be greased as a regular service item.
    Alternative is to go with oil lube mod.
    Replace the hub seal with rtc3511, remove the seal in the stub axle and put on aftermarket drive flanges.
    Your drive flanges are probably going to be worn out from running dry, adding to drive train clunks.
    Last edited by jboot51; 1st January 2015 at 08:15 AM. Reason: typo
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  5. #5
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    Did you do the "O'Ring" mod Gav?

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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    No - didn't know there was one - tell me more?
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bacicat View Post
    Maybe the lack of lubrication has caused the some wear on the drive plate - I can't remember how much meat is supposed to be in there - I didn't look at that on mine while it was apart, but it's only a few bolts to check if you want me to? You got a pic of the axle end at all?
    So you want me to pull the axle shaft out and take a pic of the diff end of it yeah?


    Quote Originally Posted by jboot51 View Post
    you've still got greased bearings I assume, so the axle spline should be greased as a regular service item.
    Alternative is to go with oil lube mod.
    Replace the hub seal with rtc3511, remove the seal in the stub axle and put on aftermarket drive flanges.
    Your drive flanges are probably going to be worn out from running dry, adding to drive train clunks.
    yeah the bearings are still all well greased up to the inner seals...but everything else is bone dry :/ ...do I just pull the whole axle shaft out and apply grease liberally and put it pack in? Do you think I should go aftermarket drive flanges if I cant detect any movment by hand on the splines?


    can anyone explain this 'oil lube mod' and 'oring mod'


    thanks fellas

  8. #8
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    The oil lube mod is to have the wheel bearings and flange spline lubricated with diff oil.
    By removing the stub axles seal, diff oil is allowed into the wheel hub lubricating the bearings.
    The hub seal originally is a grease seal and needs to be replaced with the sIII hub seal,rtc3511.
    You can get away with using the factory drive flanges but the aftermarket ones will seal better and have a machined end cap instead of rubber.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  9. #9
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    The o ring mod I assume is to increase the oil retention abilities of the rubber cap on pre defender models.
    Most/all pre defenders were oil lubed AFAIK.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mick88 View Post
    Did you do the "O'Ring" mod Gav?

    Cheers, Mick.
    O'Ring on the lip of the drive member where the metal axle cap slips over, not usually on S3's AFAIK, well standard diff/axle sets anyway. Maybe it was standard on the Salisbury. Someone here will be able to tell us!

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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