Bouncing speedo needle

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Originally posted by walker+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(walker)</div><div class='quotemain'>I am not exactly sure what you are talking about (end plate) but I will have a look. [/b]

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Directly opposite the cable entry end (look at the pix) you'll see an inset disc that's staked in. That comes out.

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With the right angle removed I could still hear a loud (very load) whirring noise which corresponded with the needle bouncing. COuld this be inside the speedo itself or is it just the cable rubbing on the housing?[/quote]

Is it still there when you drive with the speedo cable disconnected from gthe speedo?

What is this on? Not your Disco II.

Ron

No, if it was on the Disco it would be a worry as it does not have a cable :?


It on a '77 Rangie. Will try it with cableremoved.

That disc on the right angle (I assume me mean the end cap with the notch for a straight screwdriver) it just spins around and does not come out.

I have the same problem with a RRC 2door. Bouncing speedo needle and the trip meter wont roll? What could be the problem?

(Also the Fuel gauge needle seems to be malfunctioning)

Should i change the whole instrument pod? Is this expensive? Available second hand? Any recommended shops in the Sydney Area?

Looking forward to your advice here!

-RB

I replaced the speedo cable and it almost fixed the bouncing needle problem. It still does it a tiny bit but not too bad. The rest of the problem is probably in the 90degree connector at the speedo but this is very expensive so I am just putting up with it.

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Originally posted by Roverbob

(Also the Fuel gauge needle seems to be malfunctioning)

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If it were a series I'd be suggesting voltage stabiliser.

Starts off with the fuel gauge showing lower and then the starts temp showing higher. Gets to the point where without starting the motor of a morning the temp is in the red and the tank is out of fuel. 8O

I don't know if the is a hijack, let me know it you think so.
I have the same problem in my pajero, whirring clicking and so on, I have had the speedo apart a few times and found the cause to be tiny particles of black stuff( the same consistency as the wheels that have the numbers on them)inside the 'thing' that makes the needle move, I don't know its technical name, its hollow has a lid section on one side and a smaller lid on the other, one side rotates from the gearbox and somehow the needle is moved( I think that makes sense)
Anyway what I have worked out is that someone,I believe it was the dealer I bought it from, gave the odometer and bit of a nudge. It doesn't do it all the time.

I don't know if this helps but its an alternative, assuming you have not had yours since new.

john

Same problem on 1981 RR 2DR. Change right angle drive, same problem, oiled cable same problem, changed the speedo assembly it's self and all good now. I bought a new cable before finding this out and it in now sits in the spares cabinet. Had a laugh, the new speedo assembly was from a 4spd and mine is an auto, the 4spd cluster has the recommended speeds for changing gears.

Despite fitting a new cable to the Defender today, it's still bouncing. I didn't see any obvious kinks, so no idea what this would be happening. Any other ideas?

I don't know if the Defender is the same, but on the Series transfer case the only thing that drives the speedo gear is that it is clamped - no spline or key. This means that if the nut on the end of the output shaft is even slightly loose, the speedo drive gear can slip erratically on the shaft, giving this effect.

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Originally Posted by Ranga

Despite fitting a new cable to the Defender today, it's still bouncing. I didn't see any obvious kinks, so no idea what this would be happening. Any other ideas?

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What year Defender?

I've been able to fix this in a RRC speedo {mechanical 72 to whenever).

It's not the cable or RA drive but a little white gear inside the speedo that splits, from heat /poor plastic, or possibly from zeroing the odometer while the vehicle is moving.

This little white gear is part of the odo mechanism, but when it splits it causes the input from the cable via RA drive to be 'grabbed' as it won't mesh properly with the next gear in the train.

It just gets worse until the RA drives gets chewed out by the cable trying to turn a seized speedo blob.

Can be fixed if you're patient, inventive and good with detail.

DL