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Thread: 300TDI R380 (j) Clutch fork not returning..how much pressure should it have? help!

  1. #1
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    300TDI R380 (j) Clutch fork not returning..how much pressure should it have? help!

    Hey guys and girls, I'm a long time reader, and have read many good things that have helped me here, so I'm hoping someone might be able to answer a question(s)


    I will try to make it as brief, and rule out as many things as possible to reduce confusion...


    the clutch arm does not have a hole in it, or signs of stress..as far as I can tell on the pivot point...


    have replaced clutch MC, Slave, and flexi hose..have bled them like the dollar...


    the clutch fork arm, seems to travel to the full length of the bell housing, and then "sticks" there...


    if I remove the slave, (no the death clip is broken, and I can for love or money get the new one in...so I did what the local landy dude said, and stuck a bit of Ultra Blue on the ball end, put it back together gently..) the ball end was still stuck firm to the arm, but....appears to be right back against the bell housing...


    so...


    my question is..


    after watching the Ashcroft tutorials, and (having done a series 3 gearbox removal/ clutch replacement on a farm) I cant remember, or see a way for the fork to have resistance..so what makes the fork return, towards the front of the vehicle???


    ive been at this for 3 days now, and im praying that something hasn't "fallen off" inside the box, but im at a loss to see how this could be possible...it feels like the clutch fork is getting stuck towards the end of the box...I have to yank it with pliers attached to allen key, that I can manoeuvre in behind it and then use it like a hook to get it to travel back to the fornt of the bell housing.. and use quite a bit of force


    NB///just watched another tutorial, and can see the clip for the back of the pivot ball on the rear of the fork...could this have become dislodged?
    I will try to pull the arm toward the driver side of the bell housing and see if I can get it back in...


    any ideas?


    THANKYOU>>>>>IM NOT WORTHY!<<<<<

  2. #2
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    Sticking point

    I would say that the guide the throwout race slides on has worn a ridge on it, the original guides are alloy and the replacements are cast iron.

    Ref; FTC5218 Land Rover Discovery 1 R380 Clutch ARM Pivot Bearing Release Guide | eBay



    I have struck this problem a couple of times now and it has been the cause of clutch slipping due to the throwout race not fully releasing away from the pressure plate fingers.
    .

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    Exclamation What? another part that can be upgraded?

    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklearthur View Post
    I would say that the guide the throwout race slides on has worn a ridge on it, the original guides are alloy and the replacements are cast iron.

    Ref; FTC5218 Land Rover Discovery 1 R380 Clutch ARM Pivot Bearing Release Guide | eBay



    I have struck this problem a couple of times now and it has been the cause of clutch slipping due to the throwout race not fully releasing away from the pressure plate fingers.
    .
    oh joy...THANKS FOR THE TIP...as I just might be pulling it out, and doing all the upgrades at the same time, now I know about them..in the gearbox anyhow..well, thanks, I got a wide blade screwdriver into the push rod clip hole (good for something), and could wobble it around far too much for my liking, I reckon the whole lot might have to come out...looking at the bill for the last time I did the clutch, (30,000KMS AGO) at a so called reputable dealer..in the centre of Oz...i said to replace anything that goes with the upgrades/improved stuff...so im going to be reallllll interested to see whats actually in there...I might just takes some pictures for y'all...makes me real interested to find out if the injectors were replaced...props shafts done..ect ect total $6,775.90

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEPENDER View Post
    oh joy...THANKS FOR THE TIP...as I just might be pulling it out, and doing all the upgrades at the same time, now I know about them..in the gearbox anyhow..well, thanks, I got a wide blade screwdriver into the push rod clip hole (good for something), and could wobble it around far too much for my liking, I reckon the whole lot might have to come out...looking at the bill for the last time I did the clutch, (30,000KMS AGO) at a so called reputable dealer..in the centre of Oz...i said to replace anything that goes with the upgrades/improved stuff...so im going to be reallllll interested to see whats actually in there...I might just takes some pictures for y'all...makes me real interested to find out if the injectors were replaced...props shafts done..ect ect total $6,775.90
    We don't really have "reputable dealers" here as far as workshops go, so I figure it's better to do my own service and repairs - then I can only blame myself when things go wrong. Which, sadly, they do as I'm not an expert. But at least I KNOW that the injection pump was fit with new seals; the t-box has new bearings all-round; the leaking front swivle housing is down to me driving through rougher bush than I should have; etc. The big downside is the time it takes me to do stuff (not that workshops are all that quick either...).

  5. #5
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    Im feeling you...

    yeah..totally agree..im about to cry..i got all this work done for a BIG trip, across from Alice to Cairns, via plenty and sandover highways..trailer bearings went catus a way out from Hughendon...now im just glad it wasn't the truck..really ticks me off that I worked hard, paid my tax (when I got it..then when I spent it...) and now im looking like I cant get to the cape this year...well, I suppose I better start searching the formum for R380 box removal/ refit and if its worth putting a Ashcroft in..i HATE pulling out boxes.

  6. #6
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    The good the bad and the ugly...

    Quote Originally Posted by Jode View Post
    We don't really have "reputable dealers" here as far as workshops go, so I figure it's better to do my own service and repairs - then I can only blame myself when things go wrong. Which, sadly, they do as I'm not an expert. But at least I KNOW that the injection pump was fit with new seals; the t-box has new bearings all-round; the leaking front swivle housing is down to me driving through rougher bush than I should have; etc. The big downside is the time it takes me to do stuff (not that workshops are all that quick either...).

    Never a truer statement...well the good...I managed to pull the gearbox off without taking all the floor out...I might just post a few pics...done in my driveway, (the bad... 38.5 degrees c, and 100% humidity, you sweat like a pig just breathing.. )with only a few ratchet straps...true story...the inspection showed the plastic clip sitting in the bottom of the box..no biggy..and the clutch fork not engaged properly in the extension arm assembly...the ugly...after getting a new clutch at 325,000km, PORFESSIONALLY done, none of the studs had any locklite, the engine/ bell housing I could take out with my fingers, bar 2....and all the standard craptacualr parts have bee used, just like I asked NOT TO...so im ordering all the bits and doing it myself...joy.

  7. #7
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    hey depender,
    out of interest, how long ago did you have the clutch done,
    i'm assuming the centre release bearing was a standard plastic one, how did it look ?

    I only ask, as i'm putting in a new box, next week and getting parts ready.

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