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Thread: 300tdi head GO or NO-GO

  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Safety Bay
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    VW performance lash caps are $30 for a set,hardly going to bust the bank. Pat

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Gold Coast, Qld
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    Was referring to buying a new head

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Gold Coast, Qld
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    valve guide play measurement gauge

    can anybody tell me where I can get a gauge to measure for valve guide play ?
    are they expensive ?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Logan ( Brisbane)
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    Been there done that

    Make sure you read up on how to refit the head and that you have the correct tools before doing so, Also look at the right hand side of the head Gasket towards the rear there will be one , two or three small holes that will determine the thickness of the new head gasket that you have to use. And whatever you do DONT use the old head bolts Or you will problems again. If your valves are good reuse them as a lot of the newer one are not up to the standard that was original one fitted. I had mine change from the old head to the new one by a mate that owns a engine recon shop very cheap, as I did not have the equipment to have them refaced and seated correctly having just fitted a new head to mine and thanks to a couple of mates it was done correctly, but I have been caught out by a couple of thing that have cost me time and money like not fitting the thermostat housing to the head before fitting the head.
    I live at Beenleigh if you would would like to hear more of my story PM me with a contact number.
    I brought my head from the UK and all the associated parts

    Hodgo

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Gold Coast, Qld
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    thanks hodgo,
    yep have all the right tools and correct parts, including new bolts. I like to do everything myself and learn, even by mistakes.
    One thing I'm not sure about is what's difficult about seating valves ?

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
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    First up mark where your valves came from so as they go back in same spot.
    Inspect valve seats, head and valve, clean up both seats smear some engineers blue (lightly) around valve seat and drop it into valve pocket it came out of. Without rotating the valve lift the valve out of the head and note the perfect blue line around the head seat. I usually allow 1/16" width for Inlet and up to 1/8" for exhaust, the blue ring should be circular and regular thickness.
    If it is not a perfect blue line, but very close, buy some valve grinding/lapping paste and a valve rotating tool (stick with a small suction cap) and spend some elbow greases and lap valves till you get the perfect blue line.
    To check valve guide for excessive wear, fit corresponding valve into it's guide and open the valve about 1/2" off seat and see how much you can rattle the head of the valve about, lightly oil the valve stem though. If play seems excessive take your head to you local engine/head reconditioner and have them fit new valve guides and grind new seats, the seats will have to be recessed slightly to maintain valve to piston clearance.
    Don't get the head shaved unless necessary and use a Laminated metal head gasket, good luck, Regards Frank.








    .
    Quote Originally Posted by firsttracks View Post
    thanks hodgo,
    yep have all the right tools and correct parts, including new bolts. I like to do everything myself and learn, even by mistakes.
    One thing I'm not sure about is what's difficult about seating valves ?

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