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Thread: Starter motor faulty?

  1. #1
    deano2 Guest

    Starter motor faulty?

    Hi, on a trip to Robe(sand driving) my starter motor died. I had it rebuilt 3 months ago and it just stopped again. I rang trhe RACV and the bloke said this was tipical on these lucus starters. Does any one know of anyone else with problems with the starters? The extractor pipes run right close to it and maybe it is getting to hot!!!. At $300 a go, I would like to know before it does it again. Thanks Deano (Geelong)

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Starteer

    I would be questioning the person who rebuilt it. 3 months in any ones language is unacceptable. Are you sure its cactus or is the wiring to it dodgy, broken or loose? Before and after sand driving it does not hurt to give all your electrics a dose of WD40 or CRC.

  3. #3
    Hellspawn Guest
    How close is close with the exhaust to the starter ?

    Starters do cook if too close to the exhausts regardless of how well they were remanufactured and by whom. Mainly a problem on modified exhaust systems as all the heat shielding the factory puts on comes off and nothing goes back to stop the radiating heat.

    As an example of a modified exhaust, the starter to exhaust clearance on my GM is barely 2 fingers and about the same for the clutch slave cylinder with both unshielded. The clutch would gradually fade over several minutes from firm to barely disengaging the gearbox after startup from the intense exhaust heat.

    I used that fibreglass wrap that comes in a roll. It's available in just about any width you need but I used 1" because it would be easier to get around the corners neatly with overlap and it was.

    Works great. Passenger floor doesn't become the BBQ plate it used to and the clutch always remains firm. Much cheaper than a starter rebuild. Would be worth a try.

  4. #4
    deano2 Guest
    Thanks guys, my starter motor is only about 3mm from the extractor pipe. Would a piece of Aluminum our something work? Thanks Deano

  5. #5
    Hellspawn Guest
    The best would be polished stainless steel to 'reflect' the radiating heat but you would need to aim that 'reflection' down and away from anything else that could be affected. It would need to be kept clean as well to maintain useful reflective qualities.

    3mm doesn't give much room as there needs to be clearance for air movement and the reflected heat to escape.

    Aluminium, though can be polished, doesn't have enough reflective qualities in my view. Anything can be used so long as it doesn't become brittle when subjected to thermal cycling.

    Try the fibreglass wrap first on all your primary pipes and see how that goes. Then maybe look at shields.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Williams West Aust
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    Hi Deano
    Rather than fixing your starter,enquire about a smaller body,hi torque starter specifically made for extractor exhausts.Pretty sure there is one available for the rover V8,there are for ford and chev.I would also wrap the extractors with the heat bandage as well.
    Others here should know if there is a "small" startermotor available for the rover V8 and where to get them.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
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    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

  7. #7
    deano2 Guest
    Thanks andy!!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Prestolite do a small hi torque starter - for about $250-300

    These are used a lot in kit cars where space is a premium.

    LRH
    Disco 4 SDV6 Auto
    Disco 4 SDV8 Dual Cab Project
    Disco 2 M57 Extra Cab Project
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