Give Steve a ring at ACE auto electrical he is mobile. Best I have used. He fits out my work utes. Really switched on and quality work.
My 110 County's electrical system has failed me again and I have no more hair to tear out. The relays that work the stepper motor have decided to stop working and I've had an annoying problem with the alternator for as long as I can remember. It feeds power back into the ignition circuit somehow so I need two switches to turn the engine off.
As of today, I am back to getting out of the car and pulling a string. I can find power going in to the relays, but none coming out. Changing them for known good ones makes no difference. All connections are clean and earths are good. Test lights and multimeters have been applied to no avail. I'm over it.
I have a deep mistrust of auto electricians, as my grandfather was one. He was a miserable old bugger who told me endless stories about ripping off gullible punters. He must have "reconditioned" thousands of starter motors with a can of spray paint. The sad thing is he really knew his stuff, but found no pleasure in a job well done.
So, for the first time in the 34 years since I bought my first car, I am thinking of getting a sparky to look at one of my cars. I live in Arana Hills/Ferny Grove on Brisbane's northside. Can anybody recommend an auto electrician who is skilled, honest and willing to work on an old Land Rover with a non-standard electrical system?
Also, if there's anyone I should avoid, please PM me with details.
Cheers, Dave.
Give Steve a ring at ACE auto electrical he is mobile. Best I have used. He fits out my work utes. Really switched on and quality work.
Cheers
Ben
Defender 110
Series 2A 1968 SWB
Dog - known as....Landy!
Dave,
Have you though of a new wiring harness? Depending on the amount of work it may (or may not) be cheaper just to start again.
That was one of the things I did when I had the Series 3 and never had another electrical issue with the wiring after that.
I don't know if British Offroad do them still as that is where I got the one from the Series 3 one many years ago.
Richard
If you are interested in fixing it yourself, it sounds like the diode between the alternator and the charge warning light has either failed short circuit or was removed and never reinstalled.
This is how the alternator is getting power around the ignition switch and holding the stop motor off. If you can, disconnect one of the charge warning light wires on the back of the bulb - it doesn't matter which one - and see if the vehicle starts and stops on the key. If it does, that's your problem.
Betta Car Electrics, Clontarf.
Andrew is your man.
They have done work on numerous Defenders (and similar) in the past whereas many other places just won't touch Landies.
(Tell Andrew I sent you, you'll get charged double)
Be warned though that this sort of work can be (is) very time consuming and therefore not cheap. Anywhere.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Alderley Auto Electrics in Pickering St Enoggera used to be very good but changed ownership a few years ago so not sure what they are like these days.
John
Series 2 LWB - Gone
Series 3 LWB - Gone
Series 1 LWB - Gone
81 RR 2 door - Gone
95 Disco v8 - The Next Victim
MR Automotive use Redcliffe car electrics of Anzac Ave, Redcliffe FWIW.
Dave S if someone recommends a good auto-leccy for you, you can recommend a good surgeon in return !
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
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