Thread: Bushes, what do i need?

I nkow of a top class mechanic to do your diff seals Matt

Originally posted by jason
I nkow of a top class mechanic to do your diff seals Matt

You wont be offended if i pass will you? Matt

1) Radius arm to axle x4
2) Radius arm to chassis x2
3) Pan Hard rod x2
4) Lower link arm to chassis (at least 2, Range Rovers, Defenders and Countys have a different type at each end, i think they changed with Disco2)
5) A frame to chassis x 2
6) End of anti roll bar to link arm (Dicth it?)

I think that covers it.

Dave

You might as well do the anti-roll bar bushes while you're there.... It's a fairly quick job.

Have you checked to see if the 'A' frame ones are OK? Compared to the others, these tend to last quite well.

Mark.

1) Radius arm to axle (front) NTC6860 $14.29 (4)
2) Radius arm to chassis (front) NRC4514 $6.38 (4)
3) Pan Hard rod ANR3410 $8.50 (2)
4) Lower link arm to chassis (rear) NTC9027 $32.58 (2)
5) A frame to chassis NTC1773 $16.92 (2)
6) End of anti roll bar to link arm R552819 $0.71 (8 )

7) Anti roll bar upper bush (rear) NTC7394 $3.63 (2)
8 ) Anti Roll bar upper bush (front) NTC6828 $4.28 (2)
9) Rear upper arm ball joint ANR1799 $35.70 - $165.00 (1)
10) Rear lower link to axle NTC1772 $23.52 (2)


Part numbers and cost from Karcraft (before GST). Quantity required in brackets after price.
The rear upper link ball joint varies considerably depending on which one you get. Standard QH part is the cheapest, but the Maxidrive replacemnet for around $165 is greasable and adjustable, so you'll only ever replace it once.

Note: I got these part numbers and details from EPC, but you really need to double check them before you order. :wink:

Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Ace wrote<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Have i got them all, and how much would i expect to pay for all of these in poly bush form, not the rubber ones? [/b][/quote]

Ace race cars use poly not landrovers.
only put poly in the sway bars and pan hard bar.
if you put them in radius arms ect they will limit alot of movement.
the oem rubber ones last quite well!
dont worrie about your rear a frame to chassis these will be ok!
its the ball joint that does all the work! trust me you will know
when its rooted. 8)

the radius arm bushes were a ***** to get out(didnt have a press)
and to install. i drilled through the rubber and flogged out the centre
then cut 2 slits in the sleve left in the arm with a hacksaw.
to put them in i used abit of pipe and a sledge hammer.

get someone to help you!
cheers phil

Hi guys, i put the new steering damper in tonight, the steering shudder is no where near is bad, or you dont feel the shudder through the steering wheel as badly. The whole car shakes badly when you hit a rough patch of road. Would the pan hard rod bushes be the next thinkg to do? I am going through the things one at a time trying to fix the problem. Could the suspension be the problem? Matt

hi ACE
AT advanced driver training you did not mentioned this my sugestion is that the people who do your wheel balanceing do a stactic wheel balence not a dynamic wheel balance you can tell from the wheel shimmy you have on tar roads go to the tyre place that has the the big trucks and ask for beads