Thread: Where do I get ?

a drill bit can be in place of flywheel timing pin.....


the flywheel can be held still with a large screwdriver wedged in the bell housing.



it can be done without the tools.......these tolls are to set the pump timing.

You can buy them from DIFFLOCK.com and I seem to remember some one on this importing some to sell may try a search.

The LR made tools are hard to find. That tool set mentioned before, and advertised in various LR magazines ( UK) is the go for your 200Tdi. But if you find yourself stuck, AND YOU ARE REASONABLY MECHANICALLY ADEPT this is what I was able to get by on for my 300tdi:

Manual flywheel locking pin: M14 high tensile bolt 1.5 thread,35mm long. At industrial bolt supplier I asked nice and he machined a 5mm dia spigot 10mm long at the end of the bolt. Round the spigot end off and gently screw in, in place of drain plug. I say gently just in case the timing slot is a bit off. The round end will guide itself into the slot. Auto is a different thing.

OR

I've seen LVS ( a respected LR spares place in Syd ) use an ordinary drain plug, drill a 5.5 mm hole in it, stick the 5mm drill (blunt end) up and that locks the flywheel.

Bosch VE injector locking pin: 11mm drill with 3/8 shank ( from hardware store). Wrap electrical tape around sharp edges, use emery paper to smooth shank and top of drill , as it's too tight normally. This will set injector pump right in the middle of it's adjustment. DONT FORCE IT IN: WIGGLE IT . You may find your pump is set up a little off the middle - make timing marks on the cover and wheel BEFORE TAKING BELT OFF with small file ( Texta rubs off) and use a 9mm (3/8) drill - this will lock the pump, and the timing marks will get you back to where you were.

Crank restrainer: Not too certain about that one, the 200tdi is different from the 300 - read where somebody used an old 200 crank damper, longer bolts and bolted a steel bar to it , then bolted it over the other one - used a deep socket to undo. Somewhat important to ensure that crank damper threads are clean, loctited and torqued correctly: bad things can happen if the're not.

Other than that, replacing the timing belt isn't too hard, but be warned, you stuff it up, and a lot of bad things will happen. If your local LR expert mechanic ( Not dealer unless you get mates rates !!) has an almost decent price, this is one of those jobs where a warranty is worth it.

Langy

Used a drill on my pump with no probs.

As for the flywheel you can do it by eye, use a screw driver one keep an eye on it and get someone else to torque the belt at the same time so as it does`nt move. There is no need to spend heaps of money on the genuine tools. Your biggest problem is cracking the damper bolt and removing the dampner, if you can get acces to a good puller it`ll make your life much easier. I used a cheap on and it laughed at it and bent the **** out of the main pulling bolt. With a good hydraulic puller or quality puller you shoud have no probs.

I was the fella importing them.

I have none left, but a fellow WA fella bought a set.... "Tiny" i think.

I made the crank holder to tighten the crank bolt.
6.5mm drill bit will do the timing pump.

Crank pin. Well ive done both my 200's without using this. Just line it up and before you tension it all up and turn it over, check the alighnments again.

Disco's are easy compared to Fenders.

One thing i will recommend.
When you do the Belt, buy a new belt, idler and tensioner. Dont reuse yours. Not worth the headache if one seizes due to it failing.

Cost me about $400 in parts including gaskets and seals from Karcraft.

I got Belt, Tensioner Pully, Idler (disco only), cam cover gasket, waterpump gasket, cam cover seal for crank and thats it.

Advice.....
Dont use 12 Point Sockets. Use good quality 6 Point Sockets or you will find out why... this is most important on Crank damper pully and fuel pump. i have rounded several bolts and there is one way to get them out..... drill or Cold Chisel (not jimmy barnes....)

Steve

I just got quoted $420 for the full kit for my 98tdi Disco that includes the modified crank pulley and all the other bits from British parts in Perth and another $350-400 to fit it. With the fitting price included i am contemplating doing it myself, just one question how hard is the front main engine seal to replace (not the timing cover dust seal) because that looks like it may need some TLC also. British parts said it would take an extra hour to replace that seal which is another $80 in labour on top of the first price, ahhhh.

Matt

You need a puller to get that gear off, but you can make one.
Seal to remove easy, Refitting you will need a suitable Drift.

Id have a crack at it as its nearly $1k by the sounds of it.

Steve

What sort of seal is it a lip seal or something different, and where do you get seal pullers from your local repco dealer??