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Ahh...Rookie mistake!Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
I think this was the intended link:
Otherwise there is plenty of good info on the Anderson Power Products website... The original manufacturer.
I guess it's anyone's guess what the knock-off products are rated to though, so be wary if you are needing it for a critical application.
See me at work as I have Anderson plugs at a very good price and cable to suit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
I use 175 amp Anderson plug in my work van to jump start anything I come across and never had a problem.
My 101 and Studebaker both have 175 amp Anderson plugs permanently fitted to the rear of them to run anything 12 volt or for jump starting.
Even the family camper van so if required I can connect any thing to any thing even if it is just a solar panel.
A 175 amp plug will handle jump starting up to a medium size truck
If jump starting a Kenworth I would recommend a 350 amp plug to be fitted to that size vehicle.
The thing which really helps with the use of these plugs is optional handle.
The cable used to the plug is more limiting than the plug its self.
the correct read for those charts is a look up.
based off of a starting ambient temp (nominally 25 deg c ) but for this purpose it makes neglible difference
the chart tells you how long you can pump how many amps through the connection before the contacts heat up by 40 degrees.
ignoring all the really really advanced temp vs resistance stuff and wedging the factor down a touch for a bit of the old why not ust for safety and cause we dont waat it to melt you can then work up or down to or from the insulation melting point for your insualtion... that'll normally be around the 200 degree mark so you get 4 lots of temp rise before you're in trouble.
so you could have 2500 amps for 4 seconds before youd compromise the plug and for even the hardest starting youd wind up with maybe that for 1/10th of a second then youd taper down to say 300 amps and hold there so youd be limted to about 30 seconds of cranking. before your resistance was at risk of permanent failure. and realistically most start attempts dont go past 10 seconds
and rememebr that the lugs will get hottest first and thats why we crimp not solder these connections.
Checkout this thread and pics
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/communicat...-defender.html
Ron
You should probably go off the max cable temp which is usually 70-90 degrees Celsius, rather then the melting point.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
So 40 above ambient is just about there already.
Or dont buy house wire, use automotive stuff with pretty much anything but polyester insulation :) my engine bay temps go over 90 degrees and i dont even want to think about how hot it is down by the starter trapped under the exhaust and behind the turbo with the airflow from the fan blocked by the dump pipe, when I'm winding the noise on so hard that I havent looked at the boost gauge for so long Im wondering why I bothered to install it the EGT hasnt been under 625 for as long as I can remember, has had the madman having conniptions trying to tell me if it cares more about the EGT almost living past 640 or the fact that the cooling systems over 110 and the only break Im giving the whole damn thing is about 28 seconds into the 30 second cooling system overheat shutdown when I back off just long enough for that to shut up before sticking the boot back into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by BadCo.
you know when your abusing the engine so hard you know that even the ISIS henchmen are just looking at you shaking their heads and giving it "thats harsh"
for the purpose of working out how much you can put through for short periods you can run the cable over the max temp its rated for, just not the max insulation temp. The temperature rating on the cable is like the amps rating on the plug.
me I'm a really big fan of welding cable for jumper leads or aviation grade powercable and when it comes to size, for jumper cables size is king....
I kinda like the 1200A+ kind of sizes.
If you cant dead short a fully charged N70 without letting the smoke out of your cable then they're just booster cables
You and me bothQuote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
These are my 1000A leads made with 50mm2 a-flex (basically welding cable). They are 6 meters long so you can jump start a truck nose to tail :D
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1427809966
For many years I have used a system where the jumper leads I carry have a 175A Anderson plug on one end and normal clamps on the other.
All of my work vehicles (3 by 130's) have a 175A Anderson plug mounted between the seat rails and the door just above the battery box. Its a very neat fit - and a short cable run from the battery - and , yes, there is a fuse in the system.(500A)
Also works as an easy way to charge a flat battery without taking the seat out - just hook the charger on.
I also carry one of the Thumper portable battery units - for where the jumper leads cannot reach - and they use the same 175A plug. And the short leads that come with this will plug into the longer leads I carry and turn them into a normal set of jumper leads.
Also put 175A plugs at front and back of vehicle as a power source/connection for a winch - or to plug the jumper leads in if the seat plug is too far away.
Use welding cable - because it it readily available by the metre.
The system has always worked well - and it is used a lot. Very happy with it.
Thanks guys.
We really want to use cables without clamps. e.g. the Stuart battery is in a box 6 feet above the ground under an armour plate cover on the top deck of the hull. When the radial engine fails to start we want to slave off another vehicle as quickly as possible to get on with the parade or whatever we're doing.
Hence the desire for double Anderson ended slave leads and plugs on each vehicle
Umm pic please :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies