Clutch & Gear problems on my TD5

**MickG** · 23rd May 2005, 09:02 AM

Have just had my master slave cylinder changed and have noticed the following problems with my Manual S2 TD5 which has done 113,000 klms and has a remapped Bruce Davis ECU fitted - not necessarily related problems.

[b]Problem 1. When depressing the clutch whilst changing up through the gears, the throttle sticks and keeps going for a second or two - reving a fair bit and when the gear engages, the car obviously lurches forward. Nearly shot me down a steep hill at the weekend whilst in low range so it does it in both high and low range. Seems to happen sometimes and not others and have noticed it doesn't matter if the engine is cold or hot.

[b]My theory - Hopefully this is simply a slicky accelerator cable which is easlity fixed (by someone who knows what they are doing!!)

[b]Problem 2. Gear stick is cacthing when changing from 2nd to 3rd. You really need to zig zag into 3rd where as before it simply slid up nicely.

[b]My theory - Don't have one but hope it is not too expensive and can be fixed easily. Maybe something to do with tthe "H" plate??

[b]Problem 3 (while I'm at it) - Occasionaly when changing gears, the process of the engine engaging is a bit cluncky. i.e. you put your foot back onto the accelerator and a second later the engine engages and kind of kicks in with what feels like the whole engine moving inside the bay.

[b]My theory - engine mounts?? Expensive to replace? Anyway to make the up and down change smoother so not as much lurching.

I am NOT a nmechanic by any stretch of the imagination and will be taking it to the mechanic I use soon, but want to gain a bit of knowledge first before I have to spend money getting it fixed. All tips or suggestions are appreciated and I will be posting this on a couple of other sites as well.

Cheers

**Michael2** · 23rd May 2005, 09:18 AM

I know nothing about the TD5, except to say it's driven by computers. So that leads me to think MICROSWITCH. On the RR I have after market cruise control, which relies on a micro switch - basically a reverse brake light switch, on the pedal housing. This activates the cruise control to drop engine revs during a gear change, so the motor doesn't rev out. Could the TD5 have a similar switch, which may be slightly out of alignment and is causing your gear change (clutch) problems. It may be loose and require tightening, or may just need a half turn adjustment.

Always the optimist, I look for the vaguest, but cheapest cause to a problem. :wink:

Good Luck, let us know what it ends up being.

**Tyrepower** · 23rd May 2005, 11:07 AM

My old 300 tdi had a similar problem with revving at odd times. Tried all the obvious things, ended up being the floor mat catching the pedal linkage. Check the simple silly things 1st you never know.

**MickG** · 23rd May 2005, 12:51 PM

Thanks for the input guys

Still on the search for the answer but will keep you posted.

Mick

**DEFENDERZOOK** · 23rd May 2005, 02:36 PM

the TD5 does not have an accelerator cable...it is fly by wire...

check the resistance on the accelerator pedal rheostat with multimeters and look for a smooth resistance curve as you slowly press the pedal to the floor.....there should not be any sudden jumps in resistance.

if that is working ok....then the actual butterfly control may be worn seizing or dirty...

this is assuming your fuel system is ok..ie..you dont have a bad batch of fuel.

to check engine mounts...with the bonnet open and the engine running...hold the brake and select first gear, now ease the clutch up to just before the engine stalls and press it back down while watching to see if there is any excessive movement from the engine...do the same with reverse selected....if the engine tilts to one side then drops back down(usually with a thump as it lands) you have a problem with your engine mount on the side that lifted up.

**MickG** · 24th May 2005, 04:18 PM

Originally posted by DEFENDERZOOK

to check engine mounts...with the bonnet open and the engine running...hold the brake and select first gear, now ease the clutch up to just before the engine stalls and press it back down while watching to see if there is any excessive movement from the engine...do the same with reverse selected....if the engine tilts to one side then drops back down(usually with a thump as it lands) you have a problem with your engine mount on the side that lifted up.

Cheers Defenderzook

I think I have narrowed the throttle problem down the the remapped ECU. Will try the engine mount test tonight and hope for the best.
Appreciate the input.

Mick

**chris_mack** · 8th May 2011, 08:33 PM

Originally Posted by MickG

Cheers Defenderzook

When depressing the clutch whilst changing up through the gears, the throttle sticks and keeps going for a second or two - reving a fair bit and when the gear engages, the car obviously lurches forward. Nearly shot me down a steep hill at the weekend whilst in low range so it does it in both high and low range. Seems to happen sometimes and not others and have noticed it doesn't matter if the engine is cold or hot.

Mick

I have this same problem after geting a TRS remap fitted last week. What was the cure?

McDisco · 9th May 2011, 09:15 PM

wow! Talk about reviving and old post!

Try the throttle potentiomiter (spelling?).

**chris_mack** · 10th May 2011, 05:52 PM

Originally Posted by McDisco

wow! Talk about reviving and old post!

Try the throttle potentiomiter (spelling?).

yeh, i did a search and came back with this!

cheers

Thread: Clutch & Gear problems on my TD5

Thread Tools

Clutch & Gear problems on my TD5

Thanks

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions