Thread: 300 Tdi valve stem seals

Just push them firmly back down onto the posts using a piece of tube, they'll stay there.

I had three migrate a long time ago, (7 years ?) the engine was using roughly 400ml/10,000km.
Changed all the stem seals with the head in situ and they were all still there where they should be when the head came off at the beginning of the year.

Any pointers how to do this. My 200 tdi using oil im thinking valve stem seals.

Originally Posted by muddymech

Any pointers how to do this. My 200 tdi using oil im thinking valve stem seals.

You need a valve spring compressor that mounts and holds the spring from above.
The top bears on the retainer, two claws hook onto one of the lower winds of wire.
Obviously remove the rocker gear first.

Turn the engine over so that it is at TDC on the cylinder you are working on.
Having a flat head and large squish band, you don't need air to hold the valves up, but you must remember to have that piston at TDC or you are in for a world of hurt.

Compress spring, remove lash caps (if you haven't done so already) collets, retainer and spring and remove stem seals.

Lightly lubricate new seals and push onto posts.

Reassemble spring/retainer/collet assembly, and make sure the spring is sitting on the large washer at it's base and not hooked on the edge of the recess it sits in.

Reassemble rocker gear and lash caps, reset rocker clearances and you are all done.

Remember to keep everything in order as you undo things, and reassemble in order.

Keep everything clean and lube everything on reassembly.

Originally Posted by rick130

Turn the engine over so that it is at TDC on the cylinder you are working on.
Having a flat head and large squish band, you don't need air to hold the valves up, but you must remember to have that piston at TDC or you are in for a world of hurt.

As I found out the hard way.

Originally Posted by damienb

As I found out the hard way.

Ouch.

Having done this (again) today, it's pretty easy to avoid dropping a valve. Put it on TDC for the cylinder pair, and you can check when you compress the valve before you remove the collets that it only drops a couple of mm.

There are two seals - Bearmach (green) and Elring (brown). The Elring seem better quality and are probably OEM.