Modern Jumper Leads

**Islandnomad** · 13th July 2015, 01:49 PM

I just had a situation where a friends kid got a flat battery over here. I then realized that I'd thrown out my jumper leads as the RACQ told me that they can damage modern vehicles starting them that way, might be BS not sure?

So I went up to the camp site, with my new Caterpillar Battery took his old battery out, was at 12.24v put mine in on its side connected up and got them started. Then put his old battery in and it was charging at 13.37v.

The young and happy campers made their barge all good.

My question is do jumper leads damage vehicles, if not what size/type should I buy? There are some on ebay for $50 plus post that are 3000amp and 30mm2 and 3.5m long with a 12/24v surge protector. Would have been a lot easier than what I had to do?

**drivesafe** · 13th July 2015, 02:20 PM

Hi Islandnomad, and you got it in one, the RACQ guy simply had no idea what he was taking about and it is B/S that ordinary jumper lead will damage new vehicles.

Furthermore, 8B&S ( 7.9mm2 ) jumper leads will easily start any vehicle but 6B&S ( 13mm2 ) is a good handy size to use.

**Islandnomad** · 13th July 2015, 02:25 PM

Thanks Drivesafe your a legend. So the ones that that I saw that are 30mm2 are they too big? The advertisement said something about it having a "surge protector so it doesn't damage modern vehicle electronics"? Do you sell a decent set, have a recommendation, I've had quite a few over time they all seemed a bit lightweight/poor quality??

**BadCo.** · 13th July 2015, 02:27 PM

I have jump started small petrol cars with 1.5mm2 2c+E with all three cores twisted together haha.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

**Islandnomad** · 13th July 2015, 02:32 PM

Please you blokes keep the recommendations to English not gobbledygook!!

**AndyG** · 13th July 2015, 02:41 PM

AZ JL 12/24V 2B&S 4.5M

I bought these and more than happy with the results

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 13th July 2015, 04:30 PM

I think,
if you cannot continuously WELD with it,,

its not a set of jumper leads.

it may work once,, but then again,, it may melt and burn both your cars down!

**rar110** · 13th July 2015, 04:49 PM

Most off the shelf jumper leads are all insulation with little wire capacity. I had some made up by a local auto electrician for $120. They look heavy duty like the type RACQ carry.

**Bushie** · 13th July 2015, 04:54 PM

Pick them up - you want heavy ones, if they're nice and light then there's not much copper in them

Martyn

**spudboy** · 13th July 2015, 05:02 PM

Drivesafe - I was reading the "Good Oil" thread on Discovery and this is the paragraph about warning about jump starting:

Jump Starting The Newer Engines.(D4 & Spt 3.0/5.0)
When jump starting these vehicles please do not place the +ve & -ve terminals from the jumper leads on your battery if you own one of the above. You will notice on the -ve side that there is a battery monitor. If you place the jumper leads on both the +ve & -ve terminals you will blow the battery monitor, causing many electrical faults & error messages. You will need to replace the battery monitor & then recalibrate it via a dealer(SDD programable).
...
It is a common practise not to place the jumper leads on the flattened battery terminals anyhow, as you can damage any number of ECUs in the vehicle, mainly engine ECUs.
Please take note of this as it may save you money.

How come these new vehicles don't come with any spike suppression on the ECUs etc? Seems almost a certainty that someone who hasn't read the manual will try to jump-start one direct from the battery terminals....

Do jumper leads with the anti-spike box give the same result (straight onto the battery)?

Cheers
David

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