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Thread: Modern Jumper Leads

  1. #41
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    yep, buy yourself any decently cabled set of jumper leads dont worry about spike protection. better yet go get a set made up with welders cable ad the sort of clamps posted up elsewhere in this thread.

    The only ones that offer any real protection are the ones that have "polarity protection" and require you to have both sides connected before they will complete the connection in the module. Of course these have a "bypass" switch in them to allow you to over ride the dead battery sides detection and protection. Which makes it just as easy to make the kind of mistake that can cause damage as youd do by reverse connecting the old school leads.


    IF you want to be really safe about it. Buy one of the battery tank jump starters packs and forget the jumperleads entirely.


    As drivesafe will probably say next (and while I have my own reasons for having a different procedure than him I support what he will say next)

    so with my psychic hat on drive safe will say something along the lines of

    "They do it to avert degradation of their own wallets thickness and to prevent those willing to be ignorant of real fact from having sufficient desire to be come knowledgeable enough to question the sellers motives."

    There's a big difference between want and need and if you can justify to someone that they "need" what you want them to want over the top of what they really want then they'll buy almost anything.

    What you need is a pair of 16-20mm square cables with some 500A clamps and a demo on how to jump a variety of car configurations appropriately.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Islandnomad View Post
    There seems to be misinformation out there then you can see how people get confused with entire new product ranges being released for no apparent reason.
    Hi again Islandnomad and you hit the nail right on the head.

    There are so many snake oil pedlars out there, particularly in this industry, that it makes it near impossible for the average RVer to get anywhere near the correct info they are after.

    As you may have noticed, I will argue with anyone who posts up B/S as if it were fact, even though they don't work in this industry, but then I will also disagree with people like Dave ( Blknight ) but when disagreeing with people like Dave, everyone else gets to see different but genuine options based on experiences of those who do work in the industry.

    And the AULRO is by far one of the best forums for getting the correct info in the first place.

    Just saves a lot of time!

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    IF you want to be really safe about it. Buy one of the battery tank jump starters packs and forget the jumperleads entirely.
    I'm not arguing with this one.

    My first set of jumper leads ( and still in use ) were given to me when my Valiant Charger got a flat battery at Wacol, in 1975, and an army auto elec took a set from an APC and gave them to me.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    Its important to remember that if you are the nice person offering to give someone a jump,,
    YOU do it.
    dont just pass them the leads ASSUMING they will connect everything (to YOUR car) correctly,,
    nothing worse than playing the Good Samaritan only to have some stranger blow the top off your brand new $300 battery---

    My wife's can sustained electrical damage when a guy hooked up the jumper leads even though Wendy said not to.........as she wanted to do it. A few hundred dollars later for a new fuse thingy

  5. #45
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    4M Jumper Leads Heavy Duty Welding Cable 35MM2 Orange Flexible | eBay


    These look good 35mm2 soldered flexible welding cable made up by a sparky for $175 del.

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Islandnomad View Post
    4M Jumper Leads Heavy Duty Welding Cable 35MM2 Orange Flexible | eBay


    These look good 35mm2 soldered flexible welding cable made up by a sparky for $175 del.
    Those do look good actually!

  7. #47
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    That sparky mentioned something on his site saying some of his leads were/weren't suitable for diesel, bit strange, does he mean its a higher load starting a diesel, makes sense I guess?

  8. #48
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    just for example sake.

    on fozzy the 2.25P started with a 120A peak draw. The 2.25D 450A peak and over 300 sustained. (and as high as 1100 when the starter was dying)

    theres less of a difference with modern diesels but its still a difference
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #49
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    What would be the recommended minimum cable size for 4m leads?

  10. #50
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    Hi Ranga, replies 2 and 15 pretty well cover what you need to know.

    The size of the jumper leads is actually not that important as long as you give them enough time to get a surface charger back into the disabled battery.

    But for simplicity, 8B&S will work but 6B&S would be ideal for 4m long jumper leads.

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