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Thread: Modern Jumper Leads

  1. #51
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    Modern Jumper Leads

    The cable size on mine is bigger than 6B&S......maybe 3B&S??

    At work we are now fitting Anderson plugs to the vehicles and jumper leads to take some of the thinking out of it.

  2. #52
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    Actually I think it's around 1b&s or 0b&s

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    The cable size on mine is bigger than 6B&S......maybe 3B&S??

    At work we are now fitting Anderson plugs to the vehicles and jumper leads to take some of the thinking out of it.
    That's my plan. Also more accessible for a Defender. I have a 175A plug at the rear - probably overkill, but better than too small. I'm going to buy a good set of leads, cut them, then attach an Anderson on each end. This way, I can plug them into the Anderson on the back of the Defender, or join them together for conventional leads.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranga View Post
    That's my plan. Also more accessible for a Defender. I have a 175A plug at the rear - probably overkill, but better than too small. I'm going to buy a good set of leads, cut them, then attach an Anderson on each end. This way, I can plug them into the Anderson on the back of the Defender, or join them together for conventional leads.
    Hey Ranga,
    That's exactly what I did when we had our Trayon. The Trayon to 130 was connected by a 175A anderson plug. I modded some HD jumper leads with 175A plugs so I could park the 130 up to 5m away from the Trayon when camped, and still use the battery and solar capacity of the 130 in the Trayon, without having to back it back under.
    Alan

  5. #55
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    Hi Alan,
    I do it slightly differently - the solar panel is attached to the Trayon, and connected via anderson plugs to a battery in one of the storage compartments. The panel is removable so I can put it in the sun away from the Trayon in the shade (via 10m extension cable). When on the back of the Defender, the Trayon battery is connected to the Defender auxiliary via a separate anderson plug.

    When not on the back of the Defender, the Trayon is powered/charged completely independently. Having said that, you've now highlighted that my new jumper lead cable will also allow me to connect the Defender to the Trayon when it is not on the tray, which could be handy!

  6. #56
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Rereading this thread, it needs to be pointed out that while all (as far as I know) current vehicles are negative earth, this being a Landrover forum, it needs to be noted that all Landrovers built before 1967 started life as positive earth.

    So unless both vehicles are relatively modern, make sure that you know the polarity of both systems, and if they are different, you need to be very careful that you understand what you are doing, and do not have any part of the vehicles touching each other.

    And just for completeness, there are still 6v vehicles about and also 24v ones! (do not even think about jump starting where the voltages are not the same unless you really know what you are doing!)

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #57
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    I use an ARB kit on my Disco. The leads are similar size to the winch cabling.

    The kit comes with a short length of cable with lugs on one end and an Anderson plug on the other end. I have the short part wired from the "dead" side of the winch isolating solenoid, so it is only live when the solenoid is energised.

    The substantial jumper leads have a matching Anderson plug on one end, and BIG alligator battery clips on the other end.

    I have not had to try it, but the set up could also be used to connect an auxiliary battery to the winch in an emergency.

    Connecting it up, both the Anderson plug and connection to the flat battery, is all done before switching on the solenoid, so no fireworks from the wrong connection. And as the business end is via clips it can be connected to either + or - earthed vehicles.

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    it needs to be noted that all Landrovers built before 1967 started life as positive earth.
    i didnt think there was anything positive about landrover.... oh
    Current Cars:
    2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
    2008 RRS, TDV8
    1995 VS Clubsport

    Previous Cars:
    2008 ML63, V8
    2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
    2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post
    i didnt think there was anything positive about landrover.... oh
    As a Landrover Mechanic theres lots of positive things about them, I tell customers about them all the time.

    "I'm positive thats going to cost more than you think"
    "I'm positive its got an electrical fault"
    "Absolutely positively its going to leak"
    "I'm positive its not as simple as you believe"
    "Im positve the engineering quality has gone down since LR started employing accounteneers"
    "its positively rooted"
    "you bought britpart? I'm positive that aint going to fit or work"
    "Yes it has both a negative and positive terminal on the battery"
    "Yes the output of the alternator is a postive if it has a + on the terminal"
    "yes the red cover is the positive one"
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #60
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    ha, i should print that out and pop it in the shed.

    thats gold!
    Current Cars:
    2013 E3 Maloo, 350kw
    2008 RRS, TDV8
    1995 VS Clubsport

    Previous Cars:
    2008 ML63, V8
    2002 VY SS Ute, 300kw
    2002 Disco 2, LS1 conversion

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