Thread: 5.2 Rover V8 Stroker kit

Whatever the cost of that is you need to factor in a top hatted 4/4.6 block if you want it to last a tank of fuel.

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RPI engineering in the UK has turnkey solutions similar power without the stroker kit. Best to email them and enquire - the page below is an outline of their services.

RPi Engineering - V8 Engine and Component List

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Whatever the cost of that is you need to factor in a top hatted 4/4.6 block if you want it to last a tank of fuel.

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Yep!
Thats what I thought too,,,

Powers easy,, just build it to rev more.
you cant beat cubes off idle.

what do you want it to do discoRRc?

LS1 long engines with less than 200,000kms on them are about $1300 bucks on ebay. Why would you waste the $$$ fitting something that's inherently unreliable If you want reliability, electronically limit the power the LS1 can shove through the drivetrain.

there can't be a huge weight difference given there both alloy blocked engines too

seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

LS1 long engines with less than 200,000kms on them are about $1300 bucks on ebay. Why would you waste the $$$ fitting something that's inherently unreliable If you want reliability, electronically limit the power the LS1 can shove through the drivetrain.

there can't be a huge weight difference given there both alloy blocked engines too

seeya,
Shane L.

My thoughts exactly.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

Whatever the cost of that is you need to factor in a top hatted 4/4.6 block if you want it to last a tank of fuel.

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Not necessarily... I know it's the popular belief and the default, go-to, belts-and-braces solution, but also not cheap and not definitely required. If you can find a good block you can safely embiggen it if you are sensible.

Me? I have a '93 3.9 block bored to 3.736" (to accept Chev 305 sized modern ring packs on custom slugs) mated to narrowed Chev 5.7" rods swinging off an offset ground 4.6 crank. A tad over 3.41" of stroke. Do the maths and that's an even 300ci/4.9 ltrs. Built carefully, balanced, stud kits, VR gaskets, etc. but nothing crazy and all done on a budget. Gives me an engine that makes the LS1s look a bit soft, cost me a lot less, involves 0% rego or insurance hassles, and it peaks under 5000rpm. And I can balance a 50c coin on the top of the injection plenum on it's edge with the engine idling.

It did a reasonably arduous Simpson crossing last year fully laden (three kids and all their stuff!) with a significant overheating issues for the first half of the trip (106-112?C running temp). Nothing has moved, nothing has broken, nothing has degraded. Solid as a rock (despite my best attempts). Big Red at 20psi and GVM without a run-up? Yawn...

So yes, top-hatting would be a fully robust way to do this (again, if that process is done properly by someone experienced and competent), but pick your block, do it carefully and a 'stockie' can do the job without this expense. There are some risks, but you can make them last longer than the the first tankful...

IMHO the RPI bits are overly expensive for what they deliver compared with some other options. Their 5.3 dyno figures can't quite match my 'little' 4.9 ones, and my budget was a LOT less than extending to one of theirs. However I can recommend stroking.... heartily.

Originally Posted by DiscoClax

Do the maths and that's an even 300ci/4.9 ltrs. Their 5.3 dyno figures can't quite match my 'little' 4.9 ones, and my budget was a LOT less than extending to one of theirs.

You realise theres probably a market for these,,,

Originally Posted by DiscoClax

Not necessarily... I know it's the popular belief and the default, go-to, belts-and-braces solution, but also not cheap and not definitely required. If you can find a good block you can safely embiggen it if you are sensible.

Me? I have a '93 3.9 block bored to 3.736" (to accept Chev 305 sized modern ring packs on custom slugs) mated to narrowed Chev 5.7" rods swinging off an offset ground 4.6 crank. A tad over 3.41" of stroke. Do the maths and that's an even 300ci/4.9 ltrs. Built carefully, balanced, stud kits, VR gaskets, etc. but nothing crazy and all done on a budget. Gives me an engine that makes the LS1s look a bit soft, cost me a lot less, involves 0% rego or insurance hassles, and it peaks under 5000rpm. And I can balance a 50c coin on the top of the injection plenum on it's edge with the engine idling.

It did a reasonably arduous Simpson crossing last year fully laden (three kids and all their stuff!) with a significant overheating issues for the first half of the trip (106-112?C running temp). Nothing has moved, nothing has broken, nothing has degraded. Solid as a rock (despite my best attempts). Big Red at 20psi and GVM without a run-up? Yawn...

So yes, top-hatting would be a fully robust way to do this (again, if that process is done properly by someone experienced and competent), but pick your block, do it carefully and a 'stockie' can do the job without this expense. There are some risks, but you can make them last longer than the the first tankful...

IMHO the RPI bits are overly expensive for what they deliver compared with some other options. Their 5.3 dyno figures can't quite match my 'little' 4.9 ones, and my budget was a LOT less than extending to one of theirs. However I can recommend stroking.... heartily.

That kit can only be fitted to a cross bolted block which means 4/4.6, and if you use one of them you are kidding yourself if you think its going to last.
They fail without being stroked let alone nearly doubling the HP.