Thread: to glue or not to glue the head down (300tdi)

Don't using anything other than the head gasket.
Ensure the threads in the block are clean and lightly oil the threads on the headbolts.
If it is a defender, don't forget the air cleaner bracket

Originally Posted by jboot51

Don't using anything other than the head gasket.
Ensure the threads in the block are clean and lightly oil the threads on the headbolts.
If it is a defender, don't forget the air cleaner bracket

Agree, and make the block surface so clean you could operate on it.

if your local brain surgeon isn't ringing you to book time in your engine bay its still not clean enough.

no goop on the elring composite gasket hylomar copper coat if you use the metal one.. I you have the metal one make sure the head and the block are dead flat and I mean so flat that the guys at the LHC want to use it to check the waveform deviation in the electron path from the main accelerator.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

...you have the metal one make sure the head and the block are dead flat and I mean so flat that the guys at the LHC want to use it to check the waveform deviation in the electron path from the main accelerator.

That's one of your best Dave. I love it.

If you use the Laminated Metal head gasket DO NOT use any type of sealant like Hylomar copper.
The laminated metal gaskets have their own sealant on the gasket surfaces and any added sealant will destroy the sealant on the gasket.
You should run a plug tap down all of the bolt holes in the block, you should be able to screw a head bolt to it's full depth with your fingers.
Also lubricate under bolt head where it contacts the head, Aluminium and steel tend to grab if not properly lubed and give a false torque reading, Regards Frank.

Originally Posted by Hamish3300

I am replacing my 300tdi head at the moment. Stripped it down today and will fit the new head and 3 hole elring gasket tomorrow. The question is, do I need to use a gasket cement of some sort (if so which?) or just bolt it down.

I have had a bit of bad luck with heads on the 300tdi to date since I bought it 7 months ago - one went when I bought it, put it back on skimmed and went again with a faulty new thermostat. Block is straight, thermostat, water pump, viscous fan, hoses and radiator are all new.

Bolt straight on (again) or glue with something..........that's the question.

Cheers

[QUOTE=Tank;2403132]If you use the Laminated Metal head gasket DO NOT use any type of sealant like Hylomar copper.
The laminated metal gaskets have their own sealant on the gasket surfaces and any added sealant will destroy the sealant on the gasket.
You should run a plug tap down all of the bolt holes in the block, you should be able to screw a head bolt to it's full depth with your fingers.
Also lubricate under bolt head where it contacts the head, Aluminium and steel tend to grab if not properly lubed and give a false torque reading, Regards Frank.[/QUOTE

forgot about those ones...

you can pick these ones you will see the lines of the sealant and it wont be a plain metal surface

dont get any kind o solvent on either of the composite style gaskets.

sage advice about the thread cleaning and lubing. Do that too jury is out as to weather you clean up the block and then do the threads or clean up the threads and then do the block.

the first risks making a mess of the deck and he second risks contaminating the threads....

The last thing I do before bolting a head on, after all normal cleaning jobs are done, is to lightly spray the block surface with contact cleaner and wipe it off with a very clean rag. Then place the head gasket, spray and wipe the head face and drop it on. Contact cleaner is a fast evaporating zero residue cleaner that's ideal for the last wipe.

Is there a particular sequence to tension the bolts?