300Tdi injection pump

Hmm
just re-read your post
is the leak coming from around the plunger barrel or the plunger cap
the cap as I mentioned is just an M10x1.0 bolt with an o-ring or copper washer
the plunger barrel is more complicated beast - Im scared of it ;)

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From this
VE injector pump assembly pictures. - VWDieselParts.com

that triangular screw in the head does not look too scary to remove and seal?
all the magic of the plunger/distributor looks like it is accessed via the pump body?
the triangular nut likely secure the barrel that the distributor plunger rides within???

might be okay to remove from the outside and reseal???

Dave?

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Thanks for all the replies, Roverrescue, especially the link to those pump rebuild photos.

Unfortunately they didn't seem to remove that three-sided boss. I'll try replacing the seal on the M10 centre plug but think I'll steer clear of the triangular nut until I know for sure it's OK to do so (and how to get the bugga undone!) Shouldn't be too hard to get to if I need to do it after the pump is back in.

Thanks again.

the 3 sided one o the side of the body is fair game.

going to be honest, on an average of something like 20 hours of sleep a week my memories not what it should be but I think that if you do it with the plunger off stroke you can do the one for the plunger sleeve cap but I cant remember it if one that is easier by doing the first half of the head/body seal so that you have some wiggle room.

double check that its not just the seal for screw that hte the height probe to go into

Many thanks Dave. Any suggestions on how to make a tool to undo this triangular cap. I tied wedging my 1&1/16" to it with an Allen key but couldn't budge it with all the force I could muster before my vice started to twist on the bench top. Wasn't game to flog this ill-fitting 'tool' to try to 'crack' it loose.

Should I try the pump with just the head-to-body o-ring and the centre plug copper washer replaced? The old head o-ring was very flattened and broke when I tried to prise it out to cut it off.

template the triangle an grind out a12 point socket to fit with a die grinder

just make sure you dont damage any of the points that will be driving on the points of the triangle, bad things happen.

a little heat helps but dont go too nuts or you'l be replacing the seals that werent aready damaged.

Worn bolt sockets such as Mentrich can remove triangular bolts. Can be tricky to get the size right though (and this is a big one).

Many thanks for the help yesterday guys.

I've decided to put the pump back in without removing the triangular boss at the moment. I'll see if the seals I've replaced so far do the job.

If it's still leaking from this boss, I'll attack it later with the proper tool: Bosch VE Pump Socket 3 Piece SET T E Tools 4052 NEW | eBay.

The pump's back in and piped up again, just checking the manual to make sure I haven't missed anything. I'll let you know how it goes.

The pump is all back in, piped-up, the pulley bolted on again and the air-con belt tensioned.

I left the injector unions loose and tried cranking until I saw fuel dribbling out of them - but it didn't happen. Then loosened pump inlet banjo and cranked again - no fuel. Then took out the bleed screw from the filter housing and cranked - no fuel.

Also, during all this I repeatedly tried to use the hand primer level - no resistance being felt, although the engine has been cranked several times and 'bumped' a couple of time to ensure it's not on the cam.

The tank is nearly full. So what have I stuffed up this time??

Dud lift pump perhaps?
They DONT live long and fruitful lives
They can be annoying - engine will generally run with a wearing unit until you need it or it wears out completely and you get starvation at high demand periods...

to check your IP work and as an interim measure you could gravity feed a clean container of dieso into the fuel filter.

12V electric fuel pumps (facet) can be mighty useful on a 300

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