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Thread: Air Bag manual solenoid valve control questions

  1. #1
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    Air Bag manual solenoid valve control questions

    I'm in the process of putting the rear airbags in the new car, (def 110), and am in a bit of a quandary about how to set up the valves.

    This first way is like this:



    Edit, just realised the check valves are upside down.... but you get the idea.

    Pros:
    Can fill/dump each bag at the same time
    Easy to fault find
    Cross linking of the bags prevented by the check valves

    Cons:
    Only one valve needs to fail before unwanted inflation/deflation

    The other way is like this, (which is similar to the way LR does it with the RRC):



    Pros:
    Two valves need to fail before noticeable unwanted "slow" inflation/deflation

    Cons:
    Can't fill one bag and deflate the other at the same time
    Harder to falut find
    No cross linking protection

    Any thoughts, input would be much appreciated.

    Thanks,

  2. #2
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    if your valves are any good you can omit your check valves as the valves will seal and return to the closed postion. Isolating the bags anyway

    I would personally simplify the entire setup by usng 2 3 port 3 position valves as opposed to the combinations of multiple 2 port dual position valves you have and a pressure regulator on the supply line.


    The line from the control valve I would also fit with a dump protection valve or ball cock valve and then T in a schreader valve. If you fit a dump protection valve you have to fit a restriction to the exhaust port of the control valve.

    The simplest setup assuming you dont need to chang pressure on the fly is to use a schreader valve and leave it.

    my favorite setup however is a pair of pressure regulators a pair of pressure gauges and a ball control valve. to use it simply open the ball valves (one per bag) adjust the presure untill you get the ride positon you want and the pressuge gauge is stable and then close the valve. Most pressure regulators have a dump port in them so if the output pressue is over set pressure the exess is bled off. If you're sneaky (and have good enough on board air) you can use this to aid in limiting the rebound of the airsprings by fitting a pressure reducing valve on the dump port of the regulator (which will also prevet you from dropping the presure in the bag to 0 via the regulator)



    to adjust, open the
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Hi Dave,

    Thanks for the reply, I have a few flow control valves that I can use for dump protection/speed control. I also like the schrader valve and isolater in case it all goes pear shaped.

    I was originally going to use 3 port valves, but they are the "spool/shuttle" type and don't like water/oil. I've got my hands on the diaphragm type which seem to deal with pretty much anything. (Sorry about the drawing, it shows the "spool/shuttle" type, couldn't find the diaphragm type in the sketch program I used).

    Cheers,

    Tim

  4. #4
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    From a schematics point of view its irrelvent what the valve is physcially just its function.

    you can get a "schreader coupling" which externally looks like a fairly normal screw together coupling but when you seperate it one side is a normal schreader fitting. In a pinch I'v been known to make them up out of valve extensions by brazing a connector on.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
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    From a schematics point of view its irrelvent what the valve is physcially just its function. you can bet nested diaprhagm and solenoid reed valves that can be ganged up to replicate more complicated valves but unless I need the extra complexity I prefer KISS and in this case it means minimising the number of joints connections and vlaves

    on that note

    you can get a "schreader coupling" which externally looks like a fairly normal screw together coupling but when you seperate it one side is a normal schreader fitting. In a pinch I'v been known to make them up out of valve extensions by brazing a connector on.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    What sort of valves do all the minitruckers use??? 3 way, or a seperate for up/down?

    Any thoughts on using the mechanical ride-height control valves as found on truck/bus air setups???




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