For those of you with a Puma 110 who've installed an APT rear diff guard, how did you go about fitting it?
I can't for the life of me see where the front mounting bolts are supposed to fit into.
Here is a picture of where the 2 bolt holes should be(from Defender2.net).
I had to drill and tap the holes to fit mine.
I went shallow in the hole, spacing the bolts with washers.
I did mine in the vehicle and did know what clearances I had inside the housing.
Another hint is use a thread locker so the bolts don't rattle loose.
Thanks Kyle. And sorry I missed you yesterday. This is a little daunting, as I don't want to drop everything out of the car, and nor am I confident in my ability to drill straight enough for this using my cordless drill. I suspect I might not have bothered getting this if I knew what was required.
Those holes look bigger than what I would be attempting with a cordless
I had an issue installing mine, but it was to do with the hole being clogged with crap... so not an error / omission of the APT product, just a problem with my vehicle (which appear to be the same issue that is being experienced here). We should collectively curse land rover build consistency.
JC, don't let a few holes get in your way! A decent drill (corded or otherwise) and a once over with a tap will make easy work of it. Best case a fellow aulrolian might be able to get it done, or at worst a local workshop for a bit of the folding stuff. If space is an issue you'd be able to use a right angle chuck on your drill of choice, but controlling the angle will be a bit more difficult.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
From memory they are 10mm bolts but I stand to be corrected.
As the housing is cast it's fairly easy to drill, particularly going up in drill sizes gradually.
From the research I did at the time I was fitting mine there seems to be a very narrow window of diff centres without the blind holes.
When I was talking to Ben at APT about it he had not heard of it before.
This is what happens when we use P38 hand me downs![]()
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