Thread: Range Rover Hydraulic Clutches

My first suggestion would be to get a power bleeder
either Gunsons or DIY http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

If ypou dont want to go that way I was told to get some long hose and loop it from the bleed nipple back to the master cylinder, suck the fluid up to the master cylinder, put the tube into the reservoir and pump the fluid round in circles. Worked for me when I had clutch trouble back around '83.

By the way this tip came from the guy who (IIRC) Graham Cooper was apprenticed to [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Bushie

This why i wont have a manual rangie again, its a b@stard of a job , last time took me 3 days to bleed the ****er. Bushie's idea is right and how i did mine last time, also tried a m/c cap with a tyre valve fitted to pressure bleed it - didnt work. Or as per bushie but with a bottle full of fluid connected to the hose so air comes out but not back in.

This particular problem has cropped up a number of times. I've bled my old rangies slave cyl a handful of times, replaced it, and done the same on my disco ( Virtually same set up) and I've not had the problems others have described. I don't do anything special except take my time, and not get excited - because I've owned LR's a fair while and they do take patience. On RR the manual describes letting the brake fluid run of it's own accord for 5 minutes in the main brake lines. It seems a good idea to follow that advice on the clutch. Using just a piece of transparent hose, a bottle to catch fluid, and the bleeder valve just open sufficient to let fluid out, when you press the clutch pedal slowly- brace it in that position if you are by yourself - you should have some fluid in the transparent pipe. Nip up the bleeder, release the pedal, then crack the bleeder and repeat the process. It takes me 3 (+/-) cycles to get it right.

Now I'm not disputing the others in their solutions to this - just describing what works for me.

Good luck

Langy

ps: I'd come and give you a hand, but Armidale is a really cold place this time of year.

For those of us who are fairly new to Landie ownership, what would be the symptoms of air in the clutch line?
Having recently picked up a 77 Classic, I've got a lot to learn, and want to be prepared for potential problems.
Cheers, Ian

I haven't done this for about 8 years, but if I recall the problem is that there is a part of the line behind the engine which goes up, allowing a bubble to form. I think I bent the pipe to minimise this.

I then jacked up the RH side of the car so that the line always runs uphill and no bubbles can form.

The symptom is a spongy clutch with the take up near the floor, and able to be pumped up , so the take up point can vary all over the place. This can cause dragging on gearchange making you think you have gone synchros.
Regards Philip A

power bleed takes 5 min.

nothing to it.

Michael.

Thanks for all your info, guys.

Turns out my clutch was bleeding up fine the whole time, it just felt spongy because my clutch plate was disintegrated. Bit of an incident out bush involving Low Range 1st, going down a steep hill and hydraulic line letting go when clutch was pressed, majorly dumping clutch under load. Consider it poor workmanship on my part.

Excellent idea about running the bleed line back to reservoir...why didnt I think of that? :?

not good idea as it wil inroduce air into fluid.

Michael;.