Thread: gear box problems!

g'day JONEZY

hang in there mate, i'm sure the guru's will help you out tomorrow [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]


get into the introductions forum and introduce yourself :wink: :wink:


oh and welcome to the site mate


cheers hiline

Hi, welcome to the place...

synco cones or a collasped bearing? by grinding do you mean the usual noise you get if miss the 1st-2nd change or is it more of a bearing type grinding noise?

you have checked the oil level in the gearbox? or dropped the oil and replaced with fresh 80/90 gear oil? fresh oil can make a big difference to a series box, i run morris lubricants 90 in mine and it was like buying a new truck you wouldnt believe it was the same vehicle.

parts such as syncro cones etc are still available, and the bearings are available from the normal bearing shops you see scattered around the joint.

Even if you cant find the parts local you can get them in from the UK for resonable money. Ebay can be quite useful as well.

but really there should be plenty of them available around the place locally for reasonable money as the series ii box is pretty bullet proof and very easy to work on if you have a readable manual, limited mechanical ability and some spanners.

be most surprised if a couple of the local WA guys couldnt point you in the right direction.

hi Jonezy - non synchro series beast as a first car
good to see.

you should be able to find a good replacement box for under 200$
(not a rebuilt one ) or a rebuilder for free.
i would do this- find the best one you can, rebuild it then do the swap.

dont worry about the strength of the synchro boxes, i dont think there is any difference in smashability. just more stuff to wear out in the later boxes.

the problem you have sounds like worn out synchro hubs-
fairly cheap to buy. get them from 4wd's in melb. dont buy replacement bearings from the parts suppliers though. try bearing suppliers heaps cheaper.

inciser is right about the oil, makes a big difference. Check that the transfer case hasnt sucked the gearbox dry. this is common and would cause similar symptons to what you describe.

You could do what I did in my old series 1 - well you have learnd to double shuffle 1 to 2 and I assume (2 - back to 1) then just do the same for the other gears. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

As for jumping out of gear - an elastic strap around the gear lever to hold it in works well.
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
That way you save all the time and effort until the time you drop a bearing and do the lot!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]

Been there - done it all 8O

I know this doesn't really help but it is nethertheless it is a poor option [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ohmy.gif[/img]

Good luck with it

Garry [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Quickest way to find out what's going on in the gearbox is drop the oil out into a container big enough to look through the oil to see what's suspended in it and how much of it there is in volume (litres). Lower volume than recommended is the rear gearbox oil seal failing and a large quantity of suspended brass indicates it's the sleeves and shims.

Though it sounds to me more like the syncro clips have broken on the 3rd/4th drum not necessarily the drum itself being worn. There's three clips on the syncro drum for 3rd/4th and all are required as they help hold the gear 'in'. Also too much float on the distance sleeve can allow the gear to throw itself out.

So in this case by the gearbox throwing out on overrun I'd say it's a overhaul job requiring 2nd/3rd distance sleeve replacement then the gears reshimmed accordingly, new syncro spring clips and the use of reverse detent springs due to them being stiffer than the standard ones would probably fix the symptoms.

It would be best to fix it now with a quick overhaul and be able to salvage much of the internals than drive it until it stops and be able to salvage none. Should be able to overhaul it for under $200, new bearings, gaskets, sleeves and shims. You may be able in the short term be able to replace the detent springs for the stiffer ones and not have any problems. However, the problem is still there, just now you'd be masking it similar to the occy strap around the selector lever.

The only other thing I can suggest when dealing with the gearbox.... do it right.. do it once and do it all.... it's cheap enough.

Have you got the manual from the downloads section yet?