Only thing i can think of is moisture retention and rust issues.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app
I have just installed a 100 amp disco alternator in my defender.
Thought I would do the right thing and try and protect it from the exhaust heat by wrapping the #1 elbow and the dump pipe elbow down to the flange.
I Did not read the instructions until I was completed.
Instructions state "WARNING: DO NOT WRAP CAST IRON EXHAUSTS"
Have I done a bad thing?????
Awaiting your opinions.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Only thing i can think of is moisture retention and rust issues.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
The heat of the exhaust should vaporise any moisture quickly
My question would be why in the first place
Plenty a 300Tdi Defender and Disco`s out there not having Alternator problem`s because of exhaust heat![]()
True.
I just swapped out my ISKRI alternator for this one.
The ISKRI was 13 years old and only recently had the front bearing fail.
Replaced both bearings and is still fine. I only swapped to the 100 amp alternator because my mate needed an alternator urgently, so I upgraded and he got the ISKRI.
on the original alt there was a heat shield, but has long disappeared.
Just concerned that heat will decrease the life expectancy of the rear bearing, once it melts the plastic backend off the alternator.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Maybe you could ask someone at your local exhaust shop, I rummaged around and found a heat shield at the wreckers, have no idea what it's off, but with a bit of bending and drilling it bolted on between manifold and alternator.
I believe you should keep heat away from the back of the alternator, the wires get brittle and I think it dries out the rear bearing.
The alternator on my 300TDi is a Magnetti Marrelli 115amp and it came with a plastic heat guard bolted on the rear, I put the metal one on for a bit more protection, If you're interested I will post a pic of the home made heat shield, Regards Frank.
This is a pic of my home made heat shield. Just a bit of aluminium angle, with a sheet of 1.6mm aluminium, cut and bent to shape. Made this when I replaced the old one which had a heat shield, which doesn't fit these new Magnetti Marelli's. Aluminium has good heat absorption and dissipation qualities, easy to shape. Even with this simple shield the alternator doesn't get that hot, and given the manifold ranges from 300-650 degrees, I figured any shielding help will be worthy. (Yes I know the top hose has two clamps, the casting unrneath is pitted and leaks if I don't do this).
Thanks for both the photos posted.
I like the idea of bolting to the egr plate for stability and will have a go at constructing something similar.
I did have a home made shield bolted to the back of the old alternator, but it fell off many years ago.
Tank, put a few more pics up if you have them.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
apologies to Socrates
Clancy MY15 110 Defender
Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are
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