I am strongly considering putting in front/centre/rear ATBs at the moment. Partly as an effort to tighten up the driveline, but also to solve an annoying driveline vibration while under throttle at 100 - 110km/h.
Fitting an Ashcroft ATB to a 2014/15 130 defender and discovered the centre differential is a 2 pin hemisphere now. It is also a very weak cast iron open carrier design and like the useless differentials that are being fitted to these later vehicles the crosspin is pinned into the carrier. Everyone really should be looking at fitting an ATB to their Puma as it also tightens up the drivetrain slop really well too. I can confirm early pumas had the old 4 pin centre diff which was reasonably good. I have to fit one to a 2013 90 next week so will see if that is a 4 or 2 pin design.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
I am strongly considering putting in front/centre/rear ATBs at the moment. Partly as an effort to tighten up the driveline, but also to solve an annoying driveline vibration while under throttle at 100 - 110km/h.
That's disappointing, and confusing, why change the design at such a late stage? Anyway, now I know I really need to get off my arse and fit my one.
I have to ask the stupid question
Whats the benefit of a ATB in the centre diff and can you manually lock it still? or you dont' need to?
No more slack and snatching from rear to front torque bias. No more overall slack from the centre diff during normal driving and excellent handling on dirt roads without having to lock it. Yes it still retains locking feature and is also about 500 times stronger and more durable. No thrust washers to wear out or crosspins to break.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
ahh nice. I bet they aren't cheap though.
They're probably getting rid of old stock they've previously put aside as unusable.....
I can remember as an apprentice fitter moons ago when we built gearboxes, diffs etc for road pavers, graders and such like we put aside shafts and gears when we couldn't get a good match with no slop. This ensured the box was truly "fit for purpose" unlike most of the Deafeners they send out the door.
All the reject items were put to one side and when we had time we'd try to find a good match thereby saving stuff being scrapped. But I suspect there's no incentive or time for workers on a production line to be so picky about the way they're put together.
Never mind, the public will understand and get things fixed with expensive after market equipment.
AlanH.
Justin, is there an "easy-ish" way to tell which or what exactly we have?
Mines a 2011 build, I'd like to clarify what it's got, although I'm guessing you suspect it more a later build problem.
Marcus not 100% sure about 2011. I am doing a 2013/14 shortly and will be able to then see if it is the 4 pin or 2 pin
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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