And a while ago mikeyp brought up the LH thread thing. I had to double check, because I'd been using the breaker bar/starter motor trick. Could have been ugly.
Anyway, I have just returned from a 7500 km journey, which took a week, and my you beaut hit it with a big hammer impact wrench has arrived in my absence.
I'm keen to try it but it's after 3AM, and I just got in. Best I get some sleep. I'll report.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
I cant believe this is still going!
I tried to change the timing belt on my 300Tdi once... i tried the starter motor trick and some heat but couldnt get it undone. I ended up leaving it and sold the car a couple of months later
I sold it for other reasons btw.
Cheers
Dan
I found the same thing with the one I purchased a few years ago.
Mushroomed the top of the tool.
Gave up . Purchased the crank looking tool and 3/4 braker bar with a 5ft pipe.
In saying that, a bloke (non forum member) has just done the same and managed to snap the bolt inside the crank.
His balancer is also broken around the keyway.
I assume it was overtightened when he did a rebuild 12 months ago and the bolt has bottomed out an damaged the threads.
He now has a big problem to deal with.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
The overtightening thing is worrying me. I made up a crank locking bolt as per Dave's (blkknight) instructions, but I think it would break with the leverage of a 5' pipe.
I think I'll try heating it up as much as my propane torch can give it and try again. If I have no luck I'll give up on the timing belt for now, put the head back on and save up for a; a cordless 3/4 rattler, or b;, pull the engine and put a V6 in it.
I've had tough pulley bolts before, FIATs are notorious for it, but this is ridiculous.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
My bottle jack thing will release this nut no nut will support the car and a bounce. If you dont have a bottle jack borrow one. Ring spanner (good one) one the nut, jack up on the spanner and bounce the nut will let go. If you heat first it will pop off for sure.
I have released nuts from trucks with this method on a Defender it will let go.
Chris
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