300 TDi crank pulley bolt....

**Tins** · 6th February 2016, 05:53 PM

I have been trying most of today to crack the front pulley bolt. My rattle gun, or more likely the compressor, won't cut it. I've tried the breaker bar/starter motor trick, and I've locked it in gear and used a long breaker with a pipe on it to give me about a 1200 mm pull. No way. And, yes Dave, I used a heat gun. So, a bigger compressor and rattle gun, which I can't afford, or? I've considered raising the front of the car and setting the breaker bar on the ground and then dropping the car. Other than that I'm stumped. Any ideas would be most welcome.

**Tins** · 6th February 2016, 05:55 PM

I have made up a locking pin for the flywheel so I can do the belt, but I reckon the bolt is so tight i might break the locking pin.

**TimNZ** · 6th February 2016, 06:18 PM

I got the crank pulley bolt on my neighbors RRC undone by heating it with a MAP Gas torch, then spraying it while hot with inox, (repeated about 5x), eventually it let go. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Good luck,

Tim

**Tins** · 6th February 2016, 06:21 PM

Ok Tim. I have a torch, and I guess I don't have to worry about the seal....

**Tins** · 6th February 2016, 06:23 PM

Is anybody friends with Arnold Schwarzenegger?

**Tins** · 6th February 2016, 06:28 PM

Originally Posted by TimNZ

I got the crank pulley bolt on my neighbors RRC undone by heating it with a MAP Gas torch, then spraying it while hot with inox, (repeated about 5x), eventually it let go. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.

Good luck,

Tim

Err, I take it I'm heating the pulley, not the bolt?

**bee utey** · 6th February 2016, 06:45 PM

Originally Posted by johntins

I have made up a locking pin for the flywheel so I can do the belt, but I reckon the bolt is so tight i might break the locking pin.

On an auto you remove the starter motor and engage a socket on one of the torque converter bolts that passes the little cut out behind the starter. A 3/8" deep socket seems to fit best. On a manual you put it in 4th gear high range CDL on and apply the hand brake firmly.

Originally Posted by johntins

Err, I take it I'm heating the pulley, not the bolt?

It's the bolt you're trying to expand, not the pulley.

**rick130** · 6th February 2016, 07:13 PM

I made a crank locking tool that bolts to the pulley and wedge that against the chassis rail, then use a 5' length of water pipe on a 3/4" drive breaker bar.

Can't find the damn photo of it.

**Tins** · 6th February 2016, 07:33 PM

Originally Posted by bee utey

On an auto you remove the starter motor and engage a socket on one of the torque converter bolts that passes the little cut out behind the starter. A 3/8" deep socket seems to fit best. On a manual you put it in 4th gear high range CDL on and apply the hand brake firmly.

Pretty much as I have done. It's a manual BTW.

Originally Posted by bee utey

It's the bolt you're trying to expand, not the pulley.

That's confusing. Surely expanding the bolt will make it tighter, or am I missing something? Does expanding the bolt crack the coefficient they have somehow?

**rick130** · 6th February 2016, 07:50 PM

Originally Posted by johntins

That's confusing. Surely expanding the bolt will make it tighter, or am I missing something? Does expanding the bolt crack the coefficient they have somehow?

If it's Loctited it kills the loctite and if it's rust or corrosion holding it it breaks that bind as it cools.

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