Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: R380 cooler

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,182
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB

    R380 cooler

    A few years ago the R380 in the D1 failed comprehensively due to losing all it's oil. It was leaking from the cooler pipe. My son decided he didn't want that to happen again when we fitted the Ashcroft, so he left the cooler off.

    [/IMG]

    Now I've got the car in many pieces I'm thinking of reinstating the cooler. The pipes are all still there. And I have this thing.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Provided I fit it up properly so it doesn't leak, what do people think? Is is worth it? I guess I'd need to flush the pipes and the cooler.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,182
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    No bites?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I think cooling the small capacity R380 is a necessity in hotter areas of Australia.
    Instead of troublesome hardlines and factory cooler I used the valve block you have pictured and made up hydraulic hose fittings (barbs with crimps) running to an aftermarket cooler situated beneath the front crossmember

    With your history of failure Id be wanting to make sure the cooler circuit is perfect

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,182
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    I think cooling the small capacity R380 is a necessity in hotter areas of Australia.
    Instead of troublesome hardlines and factory cooler I used the valve block you have pictured and made up hydraulic hose fittings (barbs with crimps) running to an aftermarket cooler situated beneath the front crossmember

    With your history of failure Id be wanting to make sure the cooler circuit is perfect

    S
    Yes, I had considered that. It has the added advantage of not bringing more heat back to the rad.

    And, yes, the gearbox in the car now is a suffix L built by Ashcroft's, so it deserves looking after.
    Last edited by Tins; 25th February 2016 at 03:27 PM. Reason: Typo
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,182
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    I think cooling the small capacity R380 is a necessity in hotter areas of Australia.
    Instead of troublesome hardlines and factory cooler I used the valve block you have pictured and made up hydraulic hose fittings (barbs with crimps) running to an aftermarket cooler situated beneath the front crossmember

    With your history of failure Id be wanting to make sure the cooler circuit is perfect

    S
    Do you recall the type of cooler you got?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ditto what Steve said.

    Having said that, and basically being a lazy bastard I've never fitted my thermostat block and fitted a cooler.
    As a work around I filled the R380 with Motul Gear 300 which has performed flawlessly when the ambient has been up near and in the 40's.

    I used to get bearing rattle and the change would deteriorate markedly with Castrol Syntrans, Redline MTL or a witches brew of MTL/MT90 whenever the temps rose past about 35*C. The gearchange and gear/bearing noise doesn't change with Gear 300.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Torres Straits
    Posts
    3,503
    Total Downloaded
    0
    18 Inch Finned Aluminium Transmission Engine OIL Cooler | eBay

    Pretty much this couple of barbed fittings some jizzle from pirtek to convert alloy hardliners to compression barb fittings and a few lengths of braided hydraulic hose

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    The Hills.
    Posts
    19,182
    Total Downloaded
    152.79 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by roverrescue View Post
    18 Inch Finned Aluminium Transmission Engine OIL Cooler | eBay

    Pretty much this couple of barbed fittings some jizzle from pirtek to convert alloy hardliners to compression barb fittings and a few lengths of braided hydraulic hose

    S
    Spotted those. Glad to know you think they work, cos I was going the Davies Craig, and trying to figure out where they would fit.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!