Thread: Coils and Articulation. It does make a BIG difference.

that would have to be a cheaper option than shocks. keep us posted [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Originally posted by Captain_Rightfoot+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Captain_Rightfoot)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-rangieman
MMMM'' longer springs shouldnt you also have fitted longer shocks. your shocks could be topping out which reduces wheel travel ! :roll: :roll: :roll:

You are spot on. I am still looking to drop our defender about an inch at the rear (unloaded) to fit it in the garage ops: ops: . Anyway, yesterday we decided to drop a rear spring out to check the free length, so we jacked the car up. To get the spring out, we then had to jack the axle to release the shocky so we could get the axle down far enough to get the spring out.

We were set to try some rangie springs, but then we found the spring diameter is different so we had to put the lot back together again having achieved nothing ops: ops: Next desert trip I'm going to have to carry my own spares, not sting of the other rangies [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img] I will also have to carry a front and a rear spring. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img][/b][/quote]

Mate the fronts will fit from a Rangie. I've got Defender springs in the front of the D1. It's the rears that are different.

Originally posted by sclarke
Snorkle is a Safari.
From Hardcore4x4 in Mitcham.

I'm going to try longer shocks next week......

By the look of those photos thos lads at Hardcore4x4 are rover friendly as well

Funny you should say that.....

When i was in there there was 5 Rangies, 1 Disco, My Fender, 1 80 series cruiser and a commodore.....

Dave drives a Rangie with a Chev in it.
I met him on a 4wdMonthly trip i went on.

His background is a Mechanic and recently sold his Tyre business for a 4WD business.

Now if you have a late model Landy or Rangie and prefer the work to be done by a very experianced Landy mecaninc who has all the diagnostinc equipment, then go to ROVERLAND. he seems to know his stuff.

If you have a older Landy or Rangie and you dont mind modifications then go talk to Dave from Hardcore.

If i need work done on our Disco it goes down to RoverLand.

Fender goes to Dave.

Thats my preferance as i am happy with both for different tasks.
Ohh and if i get really stuck then i go to Fred Smith. if i can wait......

Dave loves Landys and thinks the world of them, loves the quirks and problems. Strange fella......
His young bloke loves Nissan. we all have our different veiws.

Steve

Originally posted by sclarke
I was trying to get the Defender up an inch or so and thought id play around with some different combinations of Coils.

It had Std coils on it and the colours were yellow stripes front and yellow/red on the rear.

snip

Steve

Unless my eyes decieve me, your fronts have sagged, its seems coil bound at the top.

Did you work out why it reached its limits with the various combinations? Hitting bump stops, shocks maxxing out etc?

Regards
Max P

the fronts and rear are progressive so the 1st few turns seem bound.

the shocks top out that is why the articulation is bad.

i run Std Koni's and that is why i'm trying to find a solution to use the orig shocks. at $150 each i'm not keen to replace them just yet.....

Steve

Hmm,

theres a post on this topic atm on OL as well, what a coincidence..

1st, if the springs are coil bound, they're not working. They're sagged. Theres part of the problem.

2nd, theres no point in using variable rate springs on the front. Its a relatively constant load, unlike the rear. If the softer end can't carry the load, you're just wasting that much travel. If it can, the stiff end must be very stiff.. It'll handle and flex better with a constant rate spring.

3rd, there's just something wrong if std Konies are topping out. They shouldn't, they'll break sooner or later. Thast's partly what the bumpstop is for, to protect the spring & shocker from instant load.

If you fit taller springs, you'll probably find you need extended bump stops to stop it getting coil bound. So you could drop shock mounts by the same amount. Or fit longer shocks, they will be operating around the mid position more often than dropped std shocks would.

Theres no set formula, every vehicle is different, and everyone's requirements are different.

regards
Max P

OK lets get this clear.

They are not binding. The front look as though the 1st parts are as they are Progressive coils.
Guess what. the Std ones in the Front are Progressive. Factory Fit.

The rears are Factory 130's these are suppose to be the same as 110, but i think they are taller.

The Koni's only top out when the load is light and you hit a bump or articulate.
You said the bump stop has something to do with the Topping out. How can it as the bump stop prevents Bottoming out.

So the plan was to measure the compressed length when the bumpstops hit the chassis and then that is the maximum compression (add for error) then i was going to measure the maximum coil stroke. This is then the maximum length required.
I was then going to lower the top shock mount or make the lower ones higher to get the best out of my situation.

The fronts i'm not happy with as i think they are a bit stiff. Std seems to be too soft with the winch bar. And the Disco Rear is to stiff. So i'm still looking for a good coil for my needs.

So this weekend i'll play more with coils and the shock measurements.

Dont get me wrong, i'm not having a go, but i have enough nouse to work out what i need.
i'm asking about relocated mounts for the rears as even as std they topped out early.
Yes they are the correct Shocks. as fitted by an expert on LR.