Bend the top bit near the headlights by using a rubber mallet over an oxy bottle. Works a treat.
Regards, Barry.
I have seen a few landys around with checker plate on the top of the front wings (Next to bonnet). I was wondering 1) were people buy checker plate from 2) how thick is recommended 3)how they stick it to the body ( I was thinking rivets) 4) How to bend it around that top bit –near the head lights?
Bend the top bit near the headlights by using a rubber mallet over an oxy bottle. Works a treat.
Regards, Barry.
<span style="color:red">Where people buy checker plate from?</span>
Any Steel or aluminium supplier .. you can try Capral aluminium.
Alternatively you can buy the wing tops already made .. there are a number of Land Rover specialists selling them.
<span style="color:red">How thick is recommended?</span>
If you want to stand on the wings go 2.5mm or 3mm.
<span style="color:red">How they stick it to the body?</span>
Rivets is normally the go but you can also screw them down using SS counter sunk screws.
We have it on the 90 . In the Uk you can buy it ready to go on, and they do it for all over the truck. We have the wing tops and sill and rear quarters . We use stainless rivets to hold it (stainless so they do not rust)Originally posted by JONEZY
I have seen a few landys around with checker plate on the top of the front wings (Next to bonnet). I was wondering 1) were people buy checker plate from 2) how thick is recommended 3)how they stick it to the body ( I was thinking rivets) 4) How to bend it around that top bit –near the head lights?
![]()
95 300 Tdi Defender 90
99 300 Tdi Defender 110
92 Discovery 200tdi
50 Series 1 80
50 Series 1 80
www.reads4x4.com
Hi Jonezy
Great yet another WA AULORIAN 8) 8) 8)
Send a PM to Agrojnr,another Perth member,he can help you out,works as a laser cutter and already has the dimensions for a few different Landies.
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Mine are SS counter sunk screws. I have seen quite a few ads for them pre made. I would guess you wouldn't save a lot by making them yourself but it would be interesting to find out.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Wolf-wheel-rims-for...1QQcmdZViewItem
$175 on Ebay from landy spares.
Hi Everyone.
A timely topic. A mate is setting out to make himself a set for his Defender. He bought a Nibbler at the Dowerin Field Day and was going to try his hand at this. The Nibbler is only good for 1.6 with AL and he was worried about the nodules anyway. So if the Nibbler is not up to the task what do suggest for cutting?
Full marks and a gold star for the mallet and rubber hammer suggestion. He was wondering how he was going to do that.
His is a truck cab 110 so he would not want to stand on them ever - it is just for tools and day to day protection. Would you still recommend 2.5 mil anyway?
He also wants to do a section for his bonnet as he has a bonnet mount and his tyres are a bit oversize and rubbing. Me I think it is a bit much myself.
I do recommend the bonnet protectors though. Just make you feel better
Does this help with the plates?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Chequerplate-Wingto...1QQcmdZViewItem
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
James
If the nubblers aren't up to it you can use a jigsaw or for straight cuts
a circular saw.
most ally cutting can be done using powed wood working tools [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks