Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Tailshaft help needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    On the beach at Hervey Bay
    Posts
    1,562
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Tailshaft help needed

    Having blown up my second tailshaft in a month, both times the the front flange on the rear shaft, I need sugestions. This shaft cost $420 and had 30deg flanges with 1310 uj's, the flange just exploded an a very mild hill climb, low first and about 1200rpm.

    I was going to go 1350 uj's but they were only in a 20deg flange as it was the uni that let go last time.

    For those that don't know the specs of the truck, it's an 85 Rangie with 4BD1, LT85, LT230, GQ diffs with 4.1's and 35" Simex ET's.

    How hard would it be to redo the flange on the outpit shaft to take a GQ bolt patern, and would it fit in the handbrake?

    The shaft was less than 24hrs old and all it did was drive the 30km to the track and the forrest track once there.

    Help please, as I want to turbo the truck but if I cant keep tailshafts in it now, what hope do I have with a turbo!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Padstow NSW
    Posts
    4,501
    Total Downloaded
    0
    looking at my disco's lt230, there shouldnt be any trouble machining up
    a drive adapter to go from the bolt pattern of the lt230 to the nissan drive flange, assuming that the nissan is simmilar to the disco/rangie set up(i havent seen the nissan one.)
    with the adapter made up(prob for both ends) the tail shaft will need to be shortened.

    the adapter would bolt to the handbrake drum via countersunk hex head bolts then the nissan flange can be bolted to that.
    is this what you were asking???

    have you spoken to anyone like hardie spicer about different options?

    post some photos ash, any good machinist should be able to make the adapter.

    phil

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Mandurah. W.A.
    Posts
    358
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Maggot,
    I would try to establish the exact cause and any contributing factors of the latest break. I don't know if you have already gone down this road, but I would seek some expert guidance as to eliminating the problem. It may require some technical geometry/mathmatical theory to get it right.
    Good luck!
    Regards
    Maggsie

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Box Hill, Victoria
    Posts
    1,170
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You must have binding issues or similar to break 2 in a month 8O

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    On the beach at Hervey Bay
    Posts
    1,562
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Pic of now dead shaft


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Posts
    277
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Please be kind to us dial up users & reduce the pic size,,,,,,,please.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Padstow NSW
    Posts
    4,501
    Total Downloaded
    0
    is the piece that broke all cast steel???
    what was the brand of the joint ash?
    the weakest point of a uni joint is the tips of the yoke(where the caps go through)
    by looking at the pic it just looks like a casting fault/ sh%t cast quality.
    where it broke(the joint) is the split metal all the same colour and texture?
    if there is a different colour, usually at the outer surface is quite likley
    to be a crack in the cast.

    take it back to the shop and demand another and see if it does it again?

    phil

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ya know just looking at how it broke, my theory is that it is too long and when the axle hit the bump stops on the hill the shaft bottomed out on the spline..remember the bump stops can compress about 40 MM or more.

    See how it broke across the point where the shaft joins the yoke.
    Imagine whacking it on the ground in a vertical position. That is where I would expect it to break.
    Regards Philip A

  9. #9
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,529
    Total Downloaded
    0
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(\"PhilipA\")</div><div class='quotemain'>Ya know just looking at how it broke, my theory is that it is too long and when the axle hit the bump stops on the hill the shaft bottomed out on the spline..remember the bump stops can compress about 40 MM or more.

    See how it broke across the point where the shaft joins the yoke.
    Imagine whacking it on the ground in a vertical position. That is where I would expect it to break.
    Regards Philip A[/b][/quote]

    If it broke due to bottoming it should have witness marks on the end of the spline. Similarly, if it broke due to exceeding the design angle, there should be marks to show this on the ears and the matching points they hit. A competent metallurgist should be able to analyse the cause of the break. Is it possible it was simply overloaded? Probably a shock load due to a wheel suddenly gripping when spinning while the shaft was at close to maximum angle. I would think in normal circumstances an axle or planet wheel shaft would break, but I seem to remember you have heavier axle asemblies?
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Is there a relief hole in the end of the outer spline??? If not then if there was too much grease in the spline it could have hydraulically locked and there would not have been witness marks.
    In any case, even with a relief hole a small amount of grease would probably minimise witness marks. I still think that this (bottoming spline) was the prime cause. It could also be a crap casting of course.
    Any better explantions??
    regards Philip A

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!