Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 38

Thread: Urgent: How can I stop bolts from continually coming loose

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Urgent: How can I stop bolts from continually coming loose

    I have 4 bolts 3/8 UNC (into engine block Perkins) that despite Loctite and correct torqueing keep coming loose.
    I am talking within 100klms. of being tightened.
    I am going to drill and wire the (4 new bolts) heads together, but I don't think this is going to stop them losing their torque.
    Anyone in the know (engineer mechanical) that could suggest maybe to tap a different pitch thread in the block (same dia. as now) and fit new bolts to suit, or any other way to stop this persistent problem, would be much obliged, Regards Frank.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    My guess is that the item that is held on by the 4 bolts is no longer flat to the block and flexing action is undoing the bolts. Thread pitch will have a marginal effect on the loosening of these bolts. Look carefully at the item and see if an extra brace can be added if you can't fix the mounting surface.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    My guess is that the item that is held on by the 4 bolts is no longer flat to the block and flexing action is undoing the bolts. Thread pitch will have a marginal effect on the loosening of these bolts. Look carefully at the item and see if an extra brace can be added if you can't fix the mounting surface.
    The item is the bracket that the twin cylinder Compressor sits on, this bracket is cast iron and is also the drain back for the compressor sump oil, I have had both mating (one to block other to comp. base) surfaces skimmed to true up, the block surface is perfectly flat and has the correct type gasket (paper, very thin) fitted.
    The compressor that it holds up probably weighs 15k's and I was considering an extra brace to help support, but I was worried about harmonic vibes causing even more problems. Thanks for your advice, I may try replacing the cast iron bracket with a fabricated 1/2" steel bracket that would hold up the Harbour Bridge, Regards Frank.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    which loctite are you using and do you want to be able to undo them?

    you could replace the bolts with bolts that have the toothed underside that bite into the metal.

    you can use a spring washer

    if the bolts are going onto bare metal wihtout a washeryou can coat the underside of the head only with 680 or 690.

    being cast iron what the minor and major diameter of the bolt holes?

    are you trying to use 60 degree thread form (which will be undersized bolt) into a 55 degree thread form hole (which will be over size)

    are you putting a flat washer under a spring washer?

    are the bolts stretched?

    if your mating with a gasket is the gasket compressing with use/exposure?

    your probable best option for redrill and rethread is to go into a 2xd UNF helicoil if the compressor housing is going to limit the overall bold diameter.

    in place of lockwire why not use loctabs or make a pair of small straps that you can use in lieu of loctabs and give the bolt heads a tack weld?
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I used red loctite the first few times, also hardened flat washers and spring washers and very thin paper type gasket with adhesive sealer (liquid) on the block side and nothing on the bracket side, as per Perkins instructions, still came loose so used heavy type gasket with a very light smear of a special Sikaflex sealent recommended by a Perkins rebuilder.
    There must be a vibration from the back of the injector pump shaft driven compressor, cannot feel it with your hand on the comp. at idle or revs.
    I am contemplating studs with shanks with a slide/tight fit in the bracket holes (bracket holes are approx. 75mm deep and then fit anti-vibration serrated washers and lock nuts and some fold up tabs, would be near impossible to put a tack weld on 2 of the nuts as you can not even see them, much obliged for the advice, always helps to have some fresh ideas, anymore would be welcome, Regards Frank.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Stuart Town
    Posts
    851
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Are you able to isolate the vibration of the compressor from the bracket? I would think that if it is a standard fitting, there is something other than the bolts/loctite etc causing the problem.

    Tom.
    1996 Disco 1 300TDI manual - Lucille a cantankerous red head! :D
    1997 Disco 1 300TDI Auto - sold

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    The new Gold Coast, after ocean rises,Queensland
    Posts
    13,204
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Loctite gasket compound is also red and has no retaining qualities.

    The colour doesn't determine it's characteristic.

    Check that you are using correct Loctite......you can do it on internet search.....it's all listed.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    210
    Total Downloaded
    0
    G'day Tank,
    Gee you have done all the right things and still have a problem.
    I suggest that you may have a problem with your torque wrench. Has it been calibrated or tested? and can you get a lend of another one to try?.
    It maybe under torquing the bolts. When you torque the bolts does it feel right?. Also remember Loctite has a max. temperature rating and can soften if it get to hot. You can get High temperature Loctite. Also what grade of bolts are they Grd5 or Grd8?.
    Here is a link for a correct torque chart and note this is for nuts and not tapped holes.
    Torque Chart
    Here is another link for bolts into cast iron torques. Scroll down for Imperial data.
    http://www.allpar.com/fix/body/fasteners.html
    Good luck
    Chris

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Moruya Heads/Sth. Coast, NSW
    Posts
    6,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I wish I had made a blue, but everything's kosha.
    I'm going to get the local engineering shop to make me some studs with tight fitting (slide on) shanks to actually support the weight of the compressor.
    Perkins should have fitted at least 2 dowel pins to locate and support this bracket, I believe that the bolts can not support the weight by clamping force alone, a couple of factory fitted dowel pins would have solved this problem from the start.
    Again thanks all for your helpful advice, Regards Frank.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,497
    Total Downloaded
    0
    first things first...

    if your not cleaning out the loctite or its getting oil contamination before it sets it wont lock,

    if youre using spring washers and a flat washer you're doing it wrong for cast iron.

    you dont need the machine shop to make custom hard to replace studs, there are bolts available via order with shank lengths in 1/16th inch intervals.

    why not just taper drill the leading edge of the compressor housing and then use split collets to anchor it in?

    you can also use large head bolts with the head drilled and tapped to take a 4mm bolt to act as a tensioner/brake bolt.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!