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Aghhhhh, fitted reco'd head as meticulously as i usually do and the ****ing thing is chuffing like puffing billy :mad: which seems to be excessive blowby, dont understand it as i never had this problem before.
Head came up good and was 1thou shy of the minimum valve stand down limit of 0.81mm and 0.86mm before requiring valve seats recessed.
Checked the valve clearance again in case i was out but they are all within spec.
So now the head is actually sealing, other issues that were hiding in the background are poping up.
Not good.
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My theory good or bad is that i have possibly jumped a tooth or 2 on the timing belt, when i was rotating the crank by hand doing the tappets i had 1 pushrod that wasnt seated properly and it jammed so i just cranked on it just thinking is was tight.Quote:
Originally Posted by SSmith
Not even sure if thats possible but a TDC check will confirm, there has been no issue with blowby before and i could open the oil cap and leave it sitting there loose without it coming off.
How rusty were the bores? Valve issues won't contribute to blow by , unless the guides are stuffed and there's no stem seals, valve timing can contribute to an extent.
No rust on the bores at all , blowby might not be correct but closest explanation i could find. Idles with a rough sort of knock which it never had before.
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Running issue sorted, checked the tappets and number 8 had about a 8mm gap.
Re did them using the difflock guide and now its running like it should :).
8mm................. that's a little more than a little bit.
Hope it works out over the long term, like 5+ years, you deserve it just for persistence!
I would have spat it (maybe, throw me a bone haha).
DL
Quote:
Originally Posted by 350RRC
I had adjusted them a couple of times and i'm ****ed as to why it was so far out , yeah i did get fed up last Sunday so i just left it for a week and got re-acquainted with my kombi for the work commute.
I dont give up easily.
I don't know what procedure you used to determine which valves to adjust at what crank position but I find using first principles is safer and makes you think about what you're doing. When you turn the motor over by hand, observe cylinder no. 1 valves, when they rock from one to the other you adjust no.4 valves as this cylinder will be at firing TDC. Then you turn the engine until no. 3 valves rock and adjust no. 2 valves and so on. Once all 4 cylinders are adjusted at their respective TDC's run through them all again to check, and also check that all the lash caps are still in position. You'll be wise to recheck the clearances in a couple of thousand clicks in any case.
This engine has had more head jobs than a Fitzroy St hooker, when i re assemble the rocker gear etc i do them up by finger just so i have a base to work on.
Then i rotate the crank watching each valve and adjust the ones that are fully open which usually works ok for starting purposes, i have the procedure i got from difflock printed and laminated but i think the pushrod wasnt seated properly so when i started it it was chuffing a bit.
It was obvious as soon as i lifted the cover, i usually check them after a few hundred k after a gasket change.
Glad it was something simple as i really wouldnt have been happy if the head had to come off again , running great now.