Thread: IT WON'T START

morning!
i dont personally own an oiler but my days are spent maintaing
diesel hire equipment.
when you are winding the car over(with it all together) does any
white smoke come out the exhaust? this is a sign that there is fuel
being compressed in the cylinders.

all the injecton pumps i play with 90% of the time self blead if you crack the injectors. on the 10% that dont (bloody 3cly perkins) there are 2 little bleed screws on the pump body. after these are cracked all is good.

it also could be something to do with valve timing or maybe the valves arnt sealing??
i had a head of a L300 mitisy that went to a reco shop(one i used to work for) they shaved the head installed new valves(changed the previous valve height) and didnt cut the .020'' of the rocker posts, giving me 8 valves that didnt seat???

keep trying
phil.

Originally posted by DiscoUser
Shouldn't I be getting a Very HIGH Pressured output from each line to the injectors on start up.??

I think I may have (again!!!) an air lock in the injector pump but How do I get the air out without trucking the car (Yet again!!) to a diesel specialist...

...Surely the car can stand for 2 weeks and still keep the fuel in the injector pump?? That is if this is the fault this time!!

I don't think you'll get a high pressure jet from an open injector pipe, as there's no resistance to flow to build up any pressure. If you were to re-connect an injector to the pipe, you should be able to check the high pressure spray pattern. This needs to be done with great care - diesel injection pressures are not to be triffled with! Wear safety glases or preferrably goggles and put the injector tip into a small bucket. Do not under any circumstances have your hands/fingers or face anywhere near the injector tip when cranking.

If there's no strong spray pattern, then I think you're on the right track about air in the system. And if there's an air leak in the system around the pump then, yes, it will drain back over a two week period.

I'd start by methodically checking every joint in the fuel lines to and from the lift pump, filter and injector pump. Make sure all joints are firmly tightened (but don't over do it - banjo fittings aren't all that strong). And all the flexible lines are undamaged.

When satisfied that all is well, then start bleeding the system using the lever on the lift pump. First remove the bleed screw from the top of the filter housing and pump until fuel flows freely from the bleed hole. Replace the filter bleed screw and then loosen the banjo bolt at the back of the injection pump, just below the manifold pressure compensator. This should be a double banjo fitting which connects the pump return port and the return line from no.1 injector to the return line back to the fuel tank. Continue hand priming until a steady flow of fuel comes from the loosened fitting - this ensures the pump body is full. Re-tighten this fitting and try the spray pattern test again. Or just try to start it. If all is working properly (including valve and pump timing correct?), the pump should fill the injectors and pipes with a few seconds of cranking.