Hammer to the side of the bit the taper of the tie rod goes in - smack it hard. I've had the most rusted old ones pop out after a few good whacks with a mash hammer.
I've spayed penetrating oil on it and left for over 24hrs but it's still stuck solid.
Anybody got any ideas other than heat?
Hammer to the side of the bit the taper of the tie rod goes in - smack it hard. I've had the most rusted old ones pop out after a few good whacks with a mash hammer.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Some of the arms have a rectangular pad when one should hit with a hammer. That will usually shock them free.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Or another variation of the above......... hold one hammer against the side, and hit the other side with another hammer.
Penetrating oil is usually very little help with tie rod ends, as its usually not rust holding it in.
Trouble breaking taper or unwinding it off the rod?
Thanks for the replies guys but I I should have been clearer with my question.
I've got it off the car but the problem is I can't unwind it off the rod. I've got one side out ok.
Still the hammer trick. Just don't hit too hard as you may distort the tube.
Heat can help, OK to damage the paint, but don't get it hot enough to completely destroy the paint, and definitely not even approaching visibly red. And you don't want to heat the tie rod end, just the tube - keep the flame pointing away from the TRE. Add penetrating oil when hot.
Repeat until you can move it.
May help to put the thing in the freezer if possible for a couple of hours - the thermal mass of the TRE is greater than that of the tube, will help to keep it cool and contracted while you heat the tube.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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