Thread: Disco won't go uphill when cold?

A few things to check -

Kickdown cable is correctly adjust with just a little slack in it.
Acc. cable is adjusted with virtually no slack.
Intercooler and other intake hoses.
Intercooler coated with oil internally.

Timing could be out if the belt was changed recently.

What method did you use to check the trans oil, could be, if oil level is correct that the Governor is sticking, happens more when cold usually goes away when warmed up, can sometimes be cured with an oil and oil filter change in the Auto, Regards Frank.

I made sure car was level, left it in neutral and checked the dipstick. Engine was warm. Level was above high mark.

I'll check the kickdown and acc cables in the morning. Manual gear change is also very slow though so kickdown cable has no bearing on that correct?

I noted one of the heater hoses is missing. Someone has unfastened surviving hose from where it goes into the dash, bent it around and connected it back to missing hose outlet.

Yesterday while driving it home I noticed a sucking or blowing sound from behind middle of dash when I put my foot down.

Originally Posted by loanrangie

A few things to check -

Kickdown cable is correctly adjust with just a little slack in it.
Acc. cable is adjusted with virtually no slack.
Intercooler and other intake hoses.
Intercooler coated with oil internally.

Timing could be out if the belt was changed recently.

I initially suspected turbo issue but didn't feel that made sense when there was no 'go' under load cold... surely such an issue would only affect power a little, not lose almost all power?

Re timing belt... I asked the guy but he had no idea if/when it had been changed. He told me the previous owner had looked after the motor buthe had stopped driving it 3 months after getting it when the brakes started playing up. I will check it as well. Thanks

Originally Posted by Wolfriver

I initially suspected turbo issue but didn't feel that made sense when there was no 'go' under load cold... surely such an issue would only affect power a little, not lose almost all power?

Re timing belt... I asked the guy but he had no idea if/when it had been changed. He told me the previous owner had looked after the motor buthe had stopped driving it 3 months after getting it when the brakes started playing up. I will check it as well. Thanks

No it can cause your lack of power, gurgling sounds usually mean head gasket but with the heater bypassed it is most likely blocked aircon drains which are 2 pointy rubber grommets that get blocked with dirt.

Originally Posted by Wolfriver

I made sure car was level, left it in neutral and checked the dipstick. Engine was warm. Level was above high mark.

I'll check the kickdown and acc cables in the morning. Manual gear change is also very slow though so kickdown cable has no bearing on that correct?

I noted one of the heater hoses is missing. Someone has unfastened surviving hose from where it goes into the dash, bent it around and connected it back to missing hose outlet.

Yesterday while driving it home I noticed a sucking or blowing sound from behind middle of dash when I put my foot down.

Instructions for checking oil in trans are usually etched/stamped onto dipstick.
On level ground, start engine, with foot on brakes, run the gear lever up and down a few times.
Put in Neutral and immediatley pull dipstick, wipe and dip to get the correct reading, engine must be idling and gearbox cold, otherwise you will get false reading, Regards Frank.

I found a broken hose going to the wastegate diaphragm (I think that is what it is called). I fixed it but issue is still there.

Cold tranny level check shows good level.

When changing manually between gears I can't feel anything happening at all, but then after putting it into drive car moves forward, then back when into reverse, even though I actually feel nothing happening as I change gears? On my old car you can feel car pushing against brakes in any gear.

Another point, it has been running on home-made biodiesel for as long as the previous owner had it. I have read that this can cause issues as rust builds up inside system. Maybe fuel filter is blocked? But that doesn't quite make sense to me because the power issue is worse when engine cold and I think any sediment would 'fall back' after being stopped overnight?

Main suspect in my mind this far is the transmission. Anyone tried any additives that provide a temporary fix?

Could the filter be blocked?