Thread: Disco won't go uphill when cold?

Originally Posted by Wolfriver

I found a broken hose going to the wastegate diaphragm (I think that is what it is called). I fixed it but issue is still there.

Cold tranny level check shows good level.

When changing manually between gears I can't feel anything happening at all, but then after putting it into drive car moves forward, then back when into reverse, even though I actually feel nothing happening as I change gears? On my old car you can feel car pushing against brakes in any gear.

Another point, it has been running on home-made biodiesel for as long as the previous owner had it. I have read that this can cause issues as rust builds up inside system. Maybe fuel filter is blocked? But that doesn't quite make sense to me because the power issue is worse when engine cold and I think any sediment would 'fall back' after being stopped overnight?

Main suspect in my mind this far is the transmission. Anyone tried any additives that provide a temporary fix?

There is a Teflon based oil additive that can help with sticking governors, I haven't tried it so can't say it is effective or not, the local Auto Trans bloke reckons it helps but does not cure problem.
My fix for my sticking governor is an oil and filter change, mine has worked well, but it is starting to play up again with the cold weather, so I'll give it an oil and filter change again and see if it works again, Regards Frank.

Find somewhere safe to see if it has power in reverse , if not then you probably have more than one problem , you said a sucking or blowing noise when accelerating, that's gotta be intercooler/ turbo hose, have another look

I will finally get time today to have a decent look.
There is power in reverse, it just takes a while to actually change into reverse, which makes me think transmission issue?
A quick look yesterday confirmed the accelerator cable was very slack. I tightened it as far as the thread will allow (still slightly loose) but it didn't make any difference.

Does sound like a tranny issue, fluid and filter change may help.

Originally Posted by Tank

There is a Teflon based oil additive that can help with sticking governors, I haven't tried it so can't say it is effective or not, the local Auto Trans bloke reckons it helps but does not cure problem.
My fix for my sticking governor is an oil and filter change, mine has worked well, but it is starting to play up again with the cold weather, so I'll give it an oil and filter change again and see if it works again, Regards Frank.

My TD5 displayed similar symptoms. Took a while to engage a gear, and I had to rev out of it to get it up the driveway. When warm it was fine.
I tried an additive from Lucas Oil, dunno if it's teflon, and it did no good at all. Not long after this the tranny failed altogether. The two things may be coincidental, but I would be reluctant to use it again.

Just took it for a good drive.
On freeway it wouldn't go over 80 until I backed accelerator off to change into top gear.
Each gear requires this (let off accelerator a bit) to change up, although it changes down ok.
Power is there but only in some 'ranges' in each gear. It feels like you're not even putting your foot down in other 'ranges' of acceleration.

Next step is a tranny oil and filter change. Hopefully that fixes the issue.

You haven't stated whether the Auto is an electronic or hydraulic, the electronic will not have a kickdown, so if electronic, ignore my post below.
I think you should also get a workshop manual or a Rave disk off this Forum, the kickdown cable on the accelerator linkage also controls oil pressure inside the box and it needs to adjusted CORRECTLY to LR Specs, take it to a reputable Auto Trans repairer and ask him to adjust kickdown cable, Regards Frank.

Thanks Frank and everyone else.
Wouldn't have a clue whether auto is electronic or not... how do I tell?

I put a bottle of Lucas into warm transmission. Now it changes gear much better, although I still have to back it off to 'force' a gear change.

I let the biofuel run real low, then put 'normal' diesel in as I thought the lack of power when cold might be the cold oil not passing through the fuel filter until it warmed up and thinned out a little. It seems to have made a definite power difference. It will be interesting to see the difference tomorrow when cold.

I have also been tracking a squeal from the fan belt. Jboot51 dropped past and had a look for me. (Thanks Jboot, much appreciated)
We swapped out the tensioner, noise still there.
Jboot51 pointed out the water pump pulley had movement.
Yesterday I swapped out the water pump with a known working one from my broken beast. I noticed the pump had been recently replaced as the bolts still had anti-seize on them which seemed fresh. The paper gasket came off in one piece as well.

It made a difference to the noise but it is still squealing, just not as much. It seems to be coming from the idler pulley (I think that is what its called, the pulley behind the fan?).

It is a squeal with a bit of a 'clack' under it.
Both noises disappear when idling after car gets warm. Under acceleration they come back again.
Tomorrow I will pull the belt off again as online research has mentioned small stones getting caught in the grooves. I have a spare belt so will try it as well (assuming its the right length).