Thread: Chassis rust removal

I've read that you need to use quality brushes with kbs otherwise the coating reacts and goes off whilst you are brushing it on.

I used the KBS chassis paint on my range rover project and have mixed feelings about the product.

The chassis is under a carport. The very front of the chassis is exposed to direct morning sunlight and any rain. The rest of the chassis is in varying amounts of ambient light. It's been in this position, painted, for over a year(?).

The more direct the sunlight the more the surface deteriorates, creating a dull carbon coating. It can be wiped off to re-expose the remaining gloss finish underneath. How often will you do this before you are back to metal? I guess if your project is completely enclosed then there should be no problem.

It is a very tough finish.

I removed as much wax and paint as possible with paint stripper. I then used a sandblaster to clean the chassis and remove rubbish from otherwise difficult pockets. I applied the chassis paint directly to the sandblasted surface, no phosphor or undercoat - paint specs recommend sandblasted surface as the ideal for direct application. The first coat on the sandblasted surface has a lot of drag, making application take a long time and wears the brush quickly. Second and third coats are slippery and easy. Don't recommend spray painting, as it seems to be have some cyanide related properties.

This is my first car restore project so I have no experience with other chassis paints.

Originally Posted by workingonit

I used the KBS chassis paint on my range rover project and have mixed feelings about the product. The chassis is under a carport. The very front of the chassis is exposed to direct morning sunlight and any rain. The rest of the chassis is in varying amounts of ambient light. It's been in this position, painted, for over a year(?). The more direct the sunlight the more the surface deteriorates, creating a dull carbon coating. It can be wiped off to re-expose the remaining gloss finish underneath. How often will you do this before you are back to metal? I guess if your project is completely enclosed then there should be no problem. It is a very tough finish. I removed as much wax and paint as possible with paint stripper. I then used a sandblaster to clean the chassis and remove rubbish from otherwise difficult pockets. I applied the chassis paint directly to the sandblasted surface, no phosphor or undercoat - paint specs recommend sandblasted surface as the ideal for direct application. The first coat on the sandblasted surface has a lot of drag, making application take a long time and wears the brush quickly. Second and third coats are slippery and easy. Don't recommend spray painting, as it seems to be have some cyanide related properties. This is my first car restore project so I have no experience with other chassis paints.

Did you use kbs rust seal?

If it's about surface rust the best i found is tannic acid based rust converter, just done mine a week ago and i'm amazed, only powerwashed the chassis and applied it on the wet surface, i used a local product but there are many kind of converters available on the market you should find one down under, you apply it directly on the surface rust and it converst it into a black coating which can accept additional wax, see if you can find locally something like Vactan or Fertan, google out " tannic acid based rust converter" maybe you find something in the area , that's what i found on a first search with .au : R-10 Rust Converter 1LT,5LT,20LT - Perth, Western Australia - Mirco Brothers , here is more info about how these products are working: http://www.ebay.com/itm/VACTAN-RUST-...-/121025597300

I used KBS Rust Seal, black.

See Dan Gelbart

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7onZGqrYyY[/ame]

That's what the OP said:

Originally Posted by dearot

... First thing I need to do is remove the surface rust in the chassis....

Not sure what you are getting at...are you reading 'in' the chassis as inside the frame cavity and not external rust?

OP talks of dustless blasting. I took that to mean external rust. Re-reading I'm not sure if the OP wants to use that process for inside the framework cavity?

If focus is rust inside cavity then a rust converter would be a good choice.

I didnt read it "within" the chasis, i was focused on "surface"... anyway, IMO that converter thing is the best of everything i've seen untill now after i used it on mine and saw the result