Thread: 110 - Clutch Master Cylinder Recommendations

Interesting that you say PBR no longer exist. I developed a leak and replaced with a cheapy from a well know supplier. To be far I was told it was a cheaper version. It lasted about 3 months.
I was then lucky enough to be given a brand new PBR and it's been on over 5 years now.
I'd recommend PBR anytime based on my experience.
I have been told TWR and Lucas are very good though.

One that has been stainless steel lined seems to be the best option.
You could get your old one lined but a few suppliers keep cheap trailer units in stock that have already been lined.

TRW/Lucas seem to be a better quality than the parts in the blue bags/boxes but st/st lining seems to last longer.

Colin

Originally Posted by I Love My Landy!

Good evening all,

The clutch pedal randomly goes soft on my 110. Re-bleeding and rebuilding the slave cylinder has not solved the problem (also recently installed a new hose).

I was seeking recommendations on the best brand of clutch master cylinder to use? I know PBR had a good name, but I believe they no longer exist? Is TRW a suitable replacement?

Many thanks,

Edward

If the m/c isn't leaking it is most likely the small seal at the end of the plunger that stop the fluid from going back into the reservoir when you push the pedal.
Any perishing of the seals usually makes the fluid in the reservoir start to go black or darker.

Pull the m/c out and have a look at the seals and the bore, no one seems to rekit m/c's any more but is not hard and often the fix.
If the bore is scored get a new one, we used to hone them once but m/c's are cheap.
Last one I bought was from the trailer section in Supercheap, just had to change the pushrod. Around $50 iirc.
The m/c used in the Defender has been around forever and is very simple in design, as for varying quality it wouldn't surprise me if they were all made in China or somewhere cheaper now.

Stainless sleeving is an option but if the the m/c is setup properly with the pushrod end lubed it should not be needed.

Setting up the m/c correctly is important and failure to do so is the cause of most m/c failures imo.

I carry a rebuild kit for my m/c in my spares box although so far I haven't needed to do it in the field.

Cheers,
Paul.

Thank you all for your replies.

Originally Posted by harro

If the m/c isn't leaking it is most likely the small seal at the end of the plunger that stop the fluid from going back into the reservoir when you push the pedal.
No the master cylinder is not leaking.

Any perishing of the seals usually makes the fluid in the reservoir start to go black or darker.
I know what you mean about the black colour. In my case the fluid is a really dirty brown colour. This surprised me considering that the fluid is new.

Pull the m/c out and have a look at the seals and the bore, no one seems to rekit m/c's any more but is not hard and often the fix.
If the bore is scored get a new one, we used to hone them once but m/c's are cheap.
I know you can hone steel sleeved master cylinders, but can you hone alloy master cylinders? I have not had much luck with the alloy brake cylinders i have done in the past. Even though i lubricated the bore with copious amounts of brake fluid, i couldn't get the cylinder wall smooth enough because the swarf kept embedding in the stones and scored the bore

Cheers,
Paul.

On an interesting side note, my 110 with over 500,000 km's has only ever had 2 master cylinders - the original and a PBR unit (the current unit).

Edward

Hi Edward,

Rebuild kit for m/c part # STC500090.

Yes you can hone alloy m/c's just don't over do it as they are a lot softer than steel so you can oversize the bore.
If the bore isn't scored a m/c should last a very long time, the only culprit being corrosion if water gets in. A good reason for a periodical flush with new fluid.
And probably the main reason for a stainless sleeve although stainless is also a lot harder.

But for the trouble if it is scored just get another one, as I said they are cheap.

If the slave isn't leaking and you say the master isn't leaking then it probably is the small seal at the end of the plunger has failed and if that is the case the bore should be good (hopefully ).

New complete m/c or rebuild kit.
I would go the kit, around $10 on eBay or most auto spares sell them (3/4 girling iirc)
Good practice and nothing to lose if you still need to get a complete m/c.
If you are successful get another as a spare. They are easy enough to do in the field if you have to although I usually find an impending m/c failure give you plenty of warning.

Cheers,
Paul.

Hi guys this is my first post don't no if this is the right place but here goes.
I have removed the clutch pedal assembly from my 87 3.9lt County and have been trying to remove the clutch pedal from assembly so I can service it with the clutch master cyl and the slave cyl how do the bushes come out do they screw out or do they need to be pressed out or don't they come out?

You don't need to remove the bushes to service the master cylinder. Perhaps you are not referring to the bushes, so maybe explain exactly what the problem is, and we may be able to give some better advice.

John

Ok thanks John I have taken out the clutch pedal assembly box and I am replacing the m/c the next step I want to do is take apart the clutch pedal from the assembly it hangs from so I can clean it all up and repaint it as well as service the bushes and also put a grease nipple in there but can not work out how it comes apart as do the bushes unscrew or do they need to be pressed out or is there another way to do it thanks again.