You say at idle it sits at 13.3 but then mention the alt is outputting 14V ?, by my reckoning they should be the same.
How did you measure the 14V, at higher rpm possibly ?
Good morning all,
I purchased a Yuasa cranking battery (67 EF - 620cca - for 1984 110 V8) from a well-known battery chain in January this year after my previous cranking battery died. During this winter it has been VERY slow starting the vehicle of a morning. I know battery's struggle during winter, but I think it is still too slow.
I took some measurements to help me understand what is going on.
- Morning before starting - 12.58 V
- After short drive - 12.6 V
- During cranking - battery drops to 10.5 V quickly, before jumping to 11.18 V.
- The voltage at the starter motor is the same as the battery during cranking.
- During idle - battery reads 13.3, and rises.
- Alternator is pumping out 14.0 V.
- After leaving the battery on charge over-night - 12.7 V.
I spoke with the battery chain and they said if a charge overnight helps then the battery is fine. I'm not sure about this. When I purchased the battery in January it read 12.55 V, but when I put it into the vehicle it would not turn over at all! Only after a long drive did it fix itself. I've had my suspicions of it ever since.
Thank you,
Edward![]()
You say at idle it sits at 13.3 but then mention the alt is outputting 14V ?, by my reckoning they should be the same.
How did you measure the 14V, at higher rpm possibly ?
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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Thanks loanrangie.
It starts at 13.3 V at the battery, but then rises slowly over time. This is when the motor is at idle. The faster i rev the motor, the quicker the V increases.
The alternator puts out 14.0 V at low revs and at high revs, the output doesn't seem to change.
Edward![]()
Where are you actually checking the battery voltage, especially during starting? This needs to be done actually on the battery posts to eliminate the possibility of bad connections playing a part.
I had problems for some time with my 110 because of bad connections on the engine/chassis connection, and I have heard of problems with the connection of the actual starter lead to the battery terminal and the tag on the starter end.
Bad connections can cause problems both with starting and with charging.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Hi Edward, and with exception to the slow starting, just about everything you posted is pointing to your system operating as it should be.
The chart bellow will give you an idea of the start of charge of your battery and the 10.5v while cranking actually sounds pretty good.
![]()
Ths last post suggests the problem may be the starter. Or perhaps the actual connection to the starter, or the solenoid.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
My bet is starter.........
Agree the starter could be the issue. Had slow cranking recently on my RRC despite battery voltage being ok. Starter died shortly after (down the street of course)![]()
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Concur. Does the starter get hot? Not warm, they should get warm, but too hot to touch?
Next, is there a decent earth connection between the engine and chassis? The starter draws REALLY high current, and ALL connections need to be very good.
Battery voltage is one thing, but current (amperage) is another. The high current system, i.e., the very thick cables, needs to be of the first order. Current draw from a sad starter can be massive.
Really, there isn't much else.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
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2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
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